2013 POTD Thread Archive

Honestly, I have no idea which mine do or which is correct. I just find my zero point and work relative from there. I'm going to put together my Android DRO interface in the next couple days and I bet that has axis flipping if my scales turn out to be backward or something, so I'm not worried about it at all.

http://www.yuriystoys.com/2012/09/do-it-yourself-dro-with-arduino-and.html

Yes it does (in the settings).

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IT matters because at work we only have manual machines and I want to take a machinist slot when one opens. I don't want to get to reading the dro backwards. We have 4 mills and 9 lathes. All manual. I would like mine to match. Anyways I don't want to hijack this thread more with unproductive stuff. I did nothing in the shop today, sat in a crane all day.

You can flip the scales (they are symmetrical, so you can turn them 180 degrees and remount). Your cable will stick from the top but that doesn't matter.
Having the reading backwards is BAD... I had a lathe that had right-handed screw on the cross feed for a year. Guess how many parts I messed up after switching to a lathe that had the right screw... One short lapse of concentration during threading and you start over :(

Regards
Yuriy
 
It's a yucky rainy day here with flooding everywhere. I have tons to do but I don't feel like doing any actual work so I made a new handle for my magnifying glass. My grandfather gave this to me about 30 years ago and the old plastic handle was broken and was taped on. I have been using the Shars CCGX 21.51 for turning aluminum and they are fantastic. They leave a unbelievable polished mirror finish and are very forgiving as to set up and speeds.



Imag glass2.jpg

mag glass2.jpg
 
Couple of height setting tools for my lathes.

1/2 shaft is pressed in. 1/4x20 sockets.

Pointers are made from strapping, the stuff that
secures lumber, milling machine crates, lathe crates.

Sure is tough stuff.

Charl




pointers.JPG strapping.JPG
 
Couple of height setting tools for my lathes.

1/2 shaft is pressed in. 1/4x20 sockets.

Pointers are made from strapping, the stuff that
secures lumber, milling machine crates, lathe crates.

Sure is tough stuff.

Charl

Durn! I've been trying to find similar strapping at the local Home Despot. No joy! They seem to have gone exclusively to plastic strapping. Guess I need to start looking a bit further afield!

Anyway, great looking pointers.

Any thoughts about using "pot magnets" or something similar for the bases? I just got this idea from seeing the shape of yours. Might be useful, in that the indicators wouldn't get knocked out of place as easily. But you'd have to watch out for (magnetic) swarf collection ...
 
Nice job and a great presentation showing how you did the job thanks for sharing. Where do you get the wheels?

Thanks for the kind words!

I got my original wheel on eBay. Might have been something like $25 or $35 at the time. They seem to have gone up in price nowadays. Maybe the sellers are getting smarter!:thinking:

My wheel is labeled "Grade 7S Fine" and "Light Deburring Wheel." I'm going to try to get another of the same type. Works very well for the things I do.
 
From my other thread:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...king-style-aluminum-boxes?p=150984#post150984

Tried a little "proof of concept" today:

attachment.php


attachment.php


Didn't feel like big set-up, so I locked 2 pieces of 1/4" aluminum bar stock and
plowed thru with a 1/4" endmill at 1/4" depth, eyeballed the spacing.
A little cleanup with a file and a rubber hammer.... tight fit and you still see the joint detail.

I think I might have a winner!
 
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Worked on making a chuck side spider and mounted it on a D1-4 plain back plate. The chunk of aluminum is 6061 and the spider screws are tipped with brass. When I finally got it all complete and bolted down, i checked the run out and had .0005" runout on OD of mounting flange section of the spider and .002" on the nose OD near the brass tipped screws. Cleaned it all up with light finish passes and its all concentric. Not bad for turning it all in a chinese 3 jaw.

IMAG1265.jpg IMAG1279.jpg IMAG1285.jpg IMAG1288.jpg IMAG1293.jpg IMAG1294.jpg IMAG1297.jpg IMAG1298.jpg
 
I finished the 4-bolt compound upgrade for my G0602 lathe;
305b81c11e8100373f9a2c5ea3383dbe_zps62b9abb5.jpg
111bc56fd395ed0a42c09ea0751e16b0_zps48fd34d0.jpg

Here it is installed:
e57934689fe885bcb8bd214b94673fc6_zps097b450e.jpg

And this is the rusty hunk of steel I found in my woods that it started life as:
88f97301714b6098e9430892dc55fe2b_zps8691b983.jpg

305b81c11e8100373f9a2c5ea3383dbe_zps62b9abb5.jpg 111bc56fd395ed0a42c09ea0751e16b0_zps48fd34d0.jpg e57934689fe885bcb8bd214b94673fc6_zps097b450e.jpg 88f97301714b6098e9430892dc55fe2b_zps8691b983.jpg
 
I got some dial indicators from MSC that had nice magnets to go with them. Sold as a set. But, the adapter plate that came with the magnets didn't fit the indicators. I had to turn them down, drill a new bolt pattern and counterbore for the screws.
 
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