Oh yes! Do a thread and let us know where it is. I will definitely follow it, as I am super interested in building my own shop at some point in time before I can't walk anymore. Good luck!
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2014 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter Smudgemo
- Start date
Oh yes! Do a thread and let us know where it is. I will definitely follow it, as I am super interested in building my own shop at some point in time before I can't walk anymore. Good luck!
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2012
- Messages
- 1,238
No choice now to do it. This thread gets most traffic it seems like. So I would say put the thread in workspaces BUT do a weekly couple pictures here and let people know the whole thing with all the details and gobs of pics are in the other thread.
May even stimulate more guys to do same too..
May even stimulate more guys to do same too..
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2012
- Messages
- 198
Parts are from broken electric battery drills, thrift shop purchases.
3/8 x 24 end, with left hand Philips screw.
small snap ring retains the shaft, white housing
fit up real nice small chuck right side, my favorite stubby for hard to drill spots
usually, those hand chucks are never broke, left side
Charl
3/8 x 24 end, with left hand Philips screw.
small snap ring retains the shaft, white housing
fit up real nice small chuck right side, my favorite stubby for hard to drill spots
usually, those hand chucks are never broke, left side
Charl
I made a post driver a few years ago from 3 or 4 inch heavy wall pipe. There's a plate welded in the end as the striker and a T shaped stem welded to that as a handle. I put a small amount of concrete in that end to give it a little more weight. I probably didn't need to do that. For 15-20 years I just grabbed the pipe on its sides, picked it up and pounded down on the posts with it. It's a little difficult to hold the pipe that way so I decided to make some handles like the commercial ones have. I put the post driver in the shop last spring intending to do that, but it didn't happen. Today was supposed to be the last warm day so it was time to put up the snow fence. Uh oh. No handles on the post driver. That was my stimulus to get that project done. I made some handles out of rebar and welded them on before I did the snow fence. The handles are about 19" long and the stems holding them to the body are 2" long. Having used it, it could stand to have an additional 2" segment in the middle as an additional hand hold.
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2013
- Messages
- 125
I made an adapter for my binoculars so I can use them with a tripod. I forgot to take pics while making it. I cut the tube, then a small piece of aluminum rod, used the Aluma Braze to put the rod into the tube. I then drilled and tapped it to ¼"-20 threads. On the other end, I took a ¾" square piece of Aluminum, cubed it, then dropped a 0.500" hole into it, 0.650" deep. I then Aluma Brazed it in place. I then cleaned it up and added a close fit hole for the repurposed ¼"-20 knob to fit.
I tried it with the tube straight and the CG stuck out too far, making the mini tripod unstable. I added a couple of bends to it, and it is much more stable now.
I tried it with the tube straight and the CG stuck out too far, making the mini tripod unstable. I added a couple of bends to it, and it is much more stable now.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2012
- Messages
- 175
This has been my POTD for a couple weekends now.
I'm finally making some real progress with the new work surface for my CRP-4848 CNC router. I'm using red oak 3/4" plywood for it's dimensional stability and strength for the t-slots.
Last weekend I got the mounting holes and countersinks cut and the table mounted. The last two rows of mounting holes in the back were a bit of a challenge since they are outside the work envelope of the table. I had to cut the first four rows of mounting holes and then hang the plywood over the front and cut the remaining two rows. I used two separate g-code files to do it and located off of the front left corner of the frame. I'm using Artsoft's Mill Wizard to generate the g-code.
Today I cut two rows of access holes every three inches to allow me to insert and remove t-bolts as needed. I then cut the 3/8" slot for the 5/16" t-slot cutter every three inches.
Tomorrow I'll cut the 5/16" t-slot. I want to extend the t-slot all the way to the back side of the table to allow work holding options when working with pieces larger than the 48" x 48" work envelope. Moving the plywood forward again and cutting the back side is another reason why I put in the 1" holes. The back row of 1" holes gives me a point where I can drop the 5/16" cutter into the hole and cut until I reach the back edge of the plywood. T-slot cutters don't like to plunge and if they did they would cut into the 3/8" slot anyway. This way gives me more options.
-Freeman
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...ZtoTONJc/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141115_231711.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...RmuC67K0/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141115_231645.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...hBzY6V-U/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141115_231655.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...l4YTqoRM/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141109_121344.jpg
I'm finally making some real progress with the new work surface for my CRP-4848 CNC router. I'm using red oak 3/4" plywood for it's dimensional stability and strength for the t-slots.
Last weekend I got the mounting holes and countersinks cut and the table mounted. The last two rows of mounting holes in the back were a bit of a challenge since they are outside the work envelope of the table. I had to cut the first four rows of mounting holes and then hang the plywood over the front and cut the remaining two rows. I used two separate g-code files to do it and located off of the front left corner of the frame. I'm using Artsoft's Mill Wizard to generate the g-code.
Today I cut two rows of access holes every three inches to allow me to insert and remove t-bolts as needed. I then cut the 3/8" slot for the 5/16" t-slot cutter every three inches.
Tomorrow I'll cut the 5/16" t-slot. I want to extend the t-slot all the way to the back side of the table to allow work holding options when working with pieces larger than the 48" x 48" work envelope. Moving the plywood forward again and cutting the back side is another reason why I put in the 1" holes. The back row of 1" holes gives me a point where I can drop the 5/16" cutter into the hole and cut until I reach the back edge of the plywood. T-slot cutters don't like to plunge and if they did they would cut into the 3/8" slot anyway. This way gives me more options.
-Freeman
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...ZtoTONJc/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141115_231711.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...RmuC67K0/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141115_231645.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...hBzY6V-U/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141115_231655.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...l4YTqoRM/w917-h688-no/IMG_20141109_121344.jpg
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2014
- Messages
- 64
Some time ago I bought me a dividing table. 6" Chinese make.
This week i was going to use i and noticed that the handle was touching my bed of the mill.
So I manufactured an extention and that is wroking fine. I also made a plate to mount the chuck to the table.
Its working fine now.
This week i was going to use i and noticed that the handle was touching my bed of the mill.
So I manufactured an extention and that is wroking fine. I also made a plate to mount the chuck to the table.
Its working fine now.
