2015 POTD Thread Archive

"Why do photos load rotated sideways?"

Mark,
Try to load the Pictures to your PC first, and use a photo editor to reorient and or resize them, then save them that way.
It will make posting a whole lot easier.

I use a free program called irfanview to resize and fix the orientation of all pictures from my phone or camera.
http://www.irfanview.com/
 
I finished my collet blocks today. Now that I have them , I probably not need them for a long time, but I always wanted a set of these.
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Why do photos load rotated sideways?

Those turned out very nice Mark. I find that I use mine quite a bit actually, more than I thought I would when I bought them but needed them for one job in particular.

Mike.
 
Nice project, do you have anymore pictures of the build process?
Unfortunatelly this two pictures is the only I have.
Some tips:
My initial idea was to use same tapers as er collets 8/30 degrees but it had to be a very short (3/4") mandrel, so the compound was set at 35 degrees to do all tapers.(doing the fixed taper longer, inproves centralization)
The main part was made with a hex bar to give me some index capability during the milling process.
After turning the expanding bush, it was serrated.(again, because it was very short if I had more room, it was serrated alternativatelly as a real collet)
Never thigten the bolt without the part to be hold to avoid permanent deformation on the expanding bushing.
 
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In one of my videos I had shown using a piece of old telephone book page to position an end mill alongside an edge. I had a few people inquire about that so I thought I would show what I use. It is nothing but an outdate phone book that I cut into a couple of 1.5" strips keeing the binding intact. I then drilled a hole through it in order to use a piece of wire to hang it next to my mill. When I need a piece it is quick and easy to tear off one page section. Then just discard when completed with that piece.
xe0wog.jpg

Using the piece of phone book to creep up to the side of the material. Once the end mill starts to pull the paper, I know I am approx. .003" from the edge. I then move over that dimension and zero my DRO for the cut.
242zgns.jpg

After drilling and tapping four holes to 3/8"-16 I moved on to cut the steps in the nuts.
71prhz.jpg

Machining processed completed, removed from the mill vise and ready to cut on the vertical bandsaw.
2qdzytt.jpg

T-nuts completed.
2je35mg.jpg

Mill cleaned off, floors swept and closed up shop for the night.
28atgus.jpg

Mike.
 
That phone book idea is a good'n
While I don't have a paper mic I've used my good Starrett to keep track of regular notebook paper for many years.
It's always been 3mil and they hold the dimension very well.
Just checked my phone book and it's 2.5mill. Yep, checked multiple pages.
So fer giggles I checked the premium copy paper I recently purchased and got 4.2 mills. HUM, I had assumed it was the same as notebook paper.
The paper mills are incredibly accurate and the old paper trick works about as well as an edge finder if you are sensitive to the contact drag and know the paper thickness.
Fer those new machinists who are just learning this old method, if the cutter grabs the paper, " just let it have all the paper it wants". Let Go!!!
Have seen several people who tried to fight the cutter for the paper and almost got a finger into the mix.
It might be a good thing to offer a little blood to the great machine gods but lets not get carried away.
 
I have been avoiding this for long enough.. finally got around to making my motor fit the gear head i bought a while ago...when i bought it i was hoping it came with a 8mm or bigger input so the motor i had would just drop in..but no...it had a 6mm input..
there was a stepper motor already attached and the seller didn't want to take it apart to measure. but it was a great price so i went for it...

the biggest obstacle was turning down the main shaft on my motor to 6mm from 8mm...the motor face adapter was no big deal i have made a bunch of those but usually i use the same shaft size or a bushing.

so onward to motor gear disassembly.. i was actually surprised that it was a full planetary gear head/motor. this made keeping track of gears much easier..now the shaft.

it wasn't a straight rod like i hoped..i had to clamp on the flange. but i stuck it in the lathe ...wiggled it as i tightened,and it actually centered up pretty nicely... so about 10 baby passes later it was done..all was well with the world..

just needed a pin hole and it fit like a glove..did the face adapter and i'm in business ;-)


about a .02 rpm out...variable dc controlled

IMG_7682.JPG IMG_7683.JPG IMG_7684.JPG IMG_7685.JPG IMG_7686.JPG IMG_7687.JPG
 
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