2015 POTD Thread Archive

Made a handle for the guide bar on my Keller. Nothing fancy, just a taper to match the other one on the machine.
image.jpg
-frank
 
A buddy needed new wheels for his garden tractor but couldn't find the size and bolt pattern needed. So we cut the centres out of a set of atv wheels and burned out a new centre section on the plasma table. Decided to clean up the centre hole on the mill. A shaky setup, but it worked.
IMG_1635.jpg

New centre sections welded in.

IMG_1637.jpg

Greg
 
francist said:
Made a handle for the guide bar on my Keller. Nothing fancy, just a taper to match the other one on the machine.
View attachment 97693
-frank
Click to expand...

Very nice looking handle there, but I want to advertise how lazy I am. When I need a similar piece, I tap it and install a socket set screw rather than single point a thread. It's faster, uses less bar stock and socket set screws are strong with class 3A fit for low $. Plenty of other opportunities (necessities) to show off your single point threading skills. Just saying . . .
 
Surprman said:
Franco, I put Accuremote scales on my G0619. They are great.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/dro-on-new-grizzly-g0619.22780/#post-202049

Rick
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Great, I was starting to think I was the only one in here with a Grizzly G0619. Nice job on the scales, Rick.
I hadn't even given it consideration that I could mount the x-scale on the back. The Positron I'm replacing has the readouts on the sensor, so I had to put it on the front to see it. With the remotes, the back makes lots more sense. That is a serious chunk of aluminum angle you have covering it. Was that just what you had, or does the shield need to be that strong? I was thinking of just using a section of 2" x 2" x 1/8" for a shield. That's exactly how I planed to mount the y-axis scale.

I also ordered a H8178 - Table Power Feed for mine today. That longitudinal crank was wearing me out.
The stop switches were going to interfere with the DRO on the front so I'm happy to see how you did it.

I see you removed the safety shield from the right side of the head, too. :)
 
Franko,

I actually bought that aluminum specifically for the job. For just protection of the scale from chips, I probably could have gone thinner, but I wanted it to be solid. I noticed that you didn't mention the z axis. - that was the longest and most expensive scale, but truthfully, it is the one I get the most use out of. Since the G0619 is a small mill (puny by some standards), I've found that it is important to limit the depth of most passes. The z axis DRO allows me to make those adjustments more consistently. I rarely use the built in DRO - only for drilling. Good move on the power feed - I am still cranking it by hand. I think you will really appreciate it for getting a nice finish when face milling. I'm seriously thinking about adding a counter-weight to my head to reduce the "head nod" a bit. It should also make cranking the z easier.

Rick
 
Rick, I've always just moved the column height to pretty close and use the fine tune wheel and built-in z-axis DRO for z cutting, either zeroing on the top of the piece or the bed or vise jaw bottom. It never occurred to me that a DRO would be useful on the column. I suppose it would be useful for raising and returning the head for bit and collet changes.

I haven't noticed any sag of the head to the column, but I haven't checked it for movement. I checked everything yesterday and got zero readings on side to side and front to back of the bed. I was surprised by that result because I've had some issues when using a fly cutter where the bit was causing a swirl on the trailing pass behind the leading pass.

I'm looking forward to the power x feed. It is a long crank from one end of the slide to the other, though on normal milling operations I rarely crank very far. My arms were sore after cranking full side to side several times during the alignment checking operations I did yesterday.

A motor on the head height wheel would be a very useful thing, too. I've seen chucking adapters for a drill to do that trick. Down is pretty easy, but up can be a two grunt tug.
 
extropic said:
Very nice looking handle there, but I want to advertise how lazy I am. When I need a similar piece, I tap it and install a socket set screw rather than single point a thread. It's faster, uses less bar stock and socket set screws are strong with class 3A fit for low $. Plenty of other opportunities (necessities) to show off your single point threading skills. Just saying . . .
Click to expand...

Yeah, I could have but didn't think of it. Running a die over to make the threads seemed simple enough at the time..

-frank
 
Nice. Nasty question, are the muntins and mullions true or overlay. I've never done them because I couldn't figure out how.
 
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