2015 POTD Thread Archive

[f350ca]

They're real I guess. I have a set of shaper cutters that cut the profile and I guess you'd call it negative to interlock. Takes a stack of 4 cutters to do the negative with spacers and shims between them to get the profile to interlock and a tenon to go into the rails and stiles. I use a sliding plate that the material gets clamped to when cutting the negative profile on the end grain. I usually machine a board wide enough to rip 4 or 5 munitions out. then cut the profile on them, otherwise the tear out would be horrible.
Yes there's 50 pains of glass I had to cut. Have to use caulking to hold them in on the hardwood cabinets. On pine ones I cut 1/4 inch 1/4 round to hold them in and use 3/8th brads to fasten them. In pine I can push the pins in, the hardwood is to tough.
Thanks for the interest.
Greg

 

[Round in circles]

Just made a threading tool out of a cut off tool. Lets me get very close to a shoulder and the chuck. Also its a lot more ridged than a normal HHS threading tool. The angle is set a little to the left but the center of the angle is parallel to the sides of the tool. It worked so well I think I will make a jig to sharpen it on the surface grinder.

 

[Round in circles]

I've been puzzled for a while as to why you shaped the end of the engineers square , a few seconds ago I think I sussed it out. Is it for setting the dead centre tool height so it's accurate every time ?

I've been using a ground steel plate across the bed with a scriber& block set up every time, to the point of a darning needle held and checked whilst in the chuck for true height by me using a dial test indicator .

If I'm correct in my assumptions can I ask ..have you discovered any disadvantages in your method ?

I'm loath to wreck a decent accurate Moore & Wright engineers square to make such a tool .

I've been thinking of making a tall triangle out of some 3.0 or 2.5 mm thick sheet of stainless or mild steel and grinding the point down or maybe using a hole cutter , cutting a circular hole & grinding out one side to get the overhang /beak to get true dead centre height as the base can straddle both of the bed ways .
If I also round the base edges with a fine file it can be rocked back & forth to get the most accurate height indication when set up by the darning needle method . . Being so thin and flat so long as I make a hole in it I can also hang it up to keep it flat & safe.


I also made a 5 " dia disc of 1 " thick aluminium that sat across the bed with an adjustable vertical pointer set to dead center height of the needle held in the chuck but found it was not the best of things to set the height as it all depended on which pair of glasses I was using at the time .
eg.
The lenses bend the picture on my reading glasses & macular degeneration has also started to show its ugly head .

Do any members have different methods of accurately repeating the dead centre height for easy tool tip setting/checking such as a screw thread with needle point adjuster in a triangular frame etc etc ?

 

[Billh50]

Today I will be fixing my bandsaw. It started making some strange noises yesterday. Just not sure if it's the motor or the gear box right now. Once that is fixed my next thing will be to start rebuidling the spindle on my drill press that I use for milling. That will take some thinking once I get it apart as the bearings are no longer available and not a standard size. I have to admit though. These older machines were built to last. It's an old Walker Turner 900 that is 50yrs old and has been used for milling the last 6 yrs. And the bearings are just now showing enough wear to make me want to rebuild it.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

Bill, pretty sure you can get those bearings from vxb.com for not much money. I have a WT900 too and looked into it when I first got it and also because i use mine for milling as well. Don't have the bookmark on here, but there's plenty of info around on the type (inch metric bearings iirc)

 

[Billh50]

Thanks Matt, I will check that out. I know the ones at the top for the pully are no longer available. Those are the ones with the longer inner race. But I will just make spacers.

 

[churchjw]

Hey Yes, you are right about the use of the square. Don't fret about messing up a good square. This one was a yard sale find I think it was $1.00 and it was cheep one to start with. Its fairly close to square but I would not use it for layout. With some careful file work you can get it spot on to center. It works well but its hard to get around to center up facing tools. If I did another one I would do one that sat on the bed not the cross slide. Putting it on the bed may be easier to get to the tools. Boaring bars are the worst to do. You can swing the QCTP around and set the tool then rotate it back but that is a pain. Of course you shouldn't have to set QCTP tools that often. I like have the height point over the tool as opposed to level with the tool as it is easier to judge.

Jeff

I've been puzzled for a while as to why you shaped the end of the engineers square , a few seconds ago I think I sussed it out. Is it for setting the dead centre tool height so it's accurate every time ?

I've been using a ground steel plate across the bed with a scriber& block set up every time, to the point of a darning needle held and checked whilst in the chuck for true height by me using a dial test indicator .

If I'm correct in my assumptions can I ask ..have you discovered any disadvantages in your method ?

I'm loath to wreck a decent accurate Moore & Wright engineers square to make such a tool .

I've been thinking of making a tall triangle out of some 3.0 or 2.5 mm thick sheet of stainless or mild steel and grinding the point down or maybe using a hole cutter , cutting a circular hole & grinding out one side to get the overhang /beak to get true dead centre height as the base can straddle both of the bed ways .
If I also round the base edges with a fine file it can be rocked back & forth to get the most accurate height indication when set up by the darning needle method . . Being so thin and flat so long as I make a hole in it I can also hang it up to keep it flat & safe.


I also made a 5 " dia disc of 1 " thick aluminium that sat across the bed with an adjustable vertical pointer set to dead center height of the needle held in the chuck but found it was not the best of things to set the height as it all depended on which pair of glasses I was using at the time .
eg.
The lenses bend the picture on my reading glasses & macular degeneration has also started to show its ugly head .

Do any members have different methods of accurately repeating the dead centre height for easy tool tip setting/checking such as a screw thread with needle point adjuster in a triangular frame etc etc ?

 

[Round in circles]

Thanks Jeff,
One more bit of info to file for instant recall ( fat chance of that most days ) ready to be used when I happen to find a decent sized tatty square at a garage sale etc.

I might just see if I can get hold of a profile 1" thick cut letter " C " that is made in square block form from a local engineering company , out their scrap bin . Then drill and tap at the top so I can screw down on to the dead centre height.
The likelihood of finding a cheap used square around these parts is fast becoming a problem .
Perhaps it will be eventually done by welding up some 1 & 1/4 " angle iron for the " C" frame instead

 

[T Bredehoft]

I jury rigged a shop made (during my apprentiseship) boring bar holder to hold an air powered die grinder, to grind the jaws of my brand new (when the lathe was new in 1976) English 4 jaw chuck. The jaws were out .009 TIR.

Now, within the repeat-ability of my Mitotoyu test indicator, .0001 TIR. I'll need to hand grind the back of the jaws, where you see the washer.

Here's the boring bar holder and the jury rig (note the novel use of the Lantern Post.

and the freshly new jaws.

The boring bar is bored to 1.000, sleeved with a .750 and a .500 drill bushing, each slit lengthwise. I've found that the 3/4" tooling I made 'way back when fits on the compound of my Atlas Clausing MK2 lathe.

 

[sgisler]

More work on the steady. Found some mistakes, either in the CAD drawing I pulled the coordinates from or entry errors putting in the program. Firstly managed to come out short to my center height:
So, I milled of the bottom of the ring and made a new base


And drilled/tapped to screw them together:

Fits just fine now. Not happy with the arms, ends wouldn't knurl worth a darn. But I'll use them for now. Need to make some brass points for the arms tomorrow.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk