-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
2015 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter jumps4
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2014
- Messages
- 1,531
I completed my ramp modifications, the ramp storage configuration and my ramp attachment system last night.
I used some existing aluminum ramps and just cut them down and modified them for my trailer project. First thing was to remove the tall side that existed on one side of each ramp. I removed the side rail and cut it on my vertical bandsaw then riveted it back onto the extruded aluminum sections. I also welded the end pieces and cut the flat at the end off and welded a 90-degree lip onto the end so it could sit down into a channel when needed to load or unload a wheeled item.
Here are a few of my aluminum welds on the lip end. These were not the clean, virgin aluminum that I like to weld but in the end the welds turned out fair.
I then set the trailer on the ground and took a couple pictures of it just to see the stance and overall profile.
I had been thinking long and hard about how to come up with an attachment design/system to keep the ramp from slipping when loading or unloading something. Years ago on a snowmobile trailer I modified for a friend, I used a piece of tubing welded across the rear of the trailer with corresponding pieces welded onto the ends of the ramps that would sit down on the round tubing. This worked well and looked OK, but not as aesthetically pleasing as I would have liked. I saw one the other day in a parking lot that had a piece of angle iron welded to the end of the deck in which the ramps sat down into and although the thought was there again it looked terrible. I thought about leaving the large flat section on the ramp and let is sit over the top of the rear of the deck but I worried about two things; first, scratching the crap out of the top of the rear perimeter piece of 2x3 tubing and secondly without it actually "locking" down into something it was a safety issue if it slid out from under whatever either my son or I was loading. Both of which were unacceptable outcomes.
I decided I liked the angle iron method as it was simple and effective but I didn't like the looks plus the "channel" ends up being a catch all for dirt, road spray and grime. I settled on a "modified" channel design that allowed me to use my lathe to make some small bungs that I would use as stand-offs for a piece of 1"x .250 flat bar. This would leave the bottom of the channel open for debris to fall through and wash off.
Flat bar used.
Bungs being tapped to 5/16-18 threads.
Parting off @ .250".
Five bungs threaded, parted and ready to space and weld onto the rear of the deck.
I mocked up the flat bar and bungs into a position in which would allow the ramps to sit flat or flush with the rear deck of the trailer when they are in the groove.
Bung welded onto the rear deck. Threads go through the bung as well as the rear deck threaded which is another .188" in thickness.
Overview of all five welded on the rear of the deck.
Rear ramp attachment points completed.
Open out the bottom to illeviate the possibility of debris getting trapped.
Here is a picture of one of the ramps locked into the groove to show how the ramp will sit flush with the deck.
Next up is a design change. I was originally going to mount the spare tire on the tongue just in front of the ATP that will be on the front and sides. I had wanted to come up with something for storage of tie downs so I could keep everything with the trailer rather than having to store the tie-downs in the shop and then have to remember to grab them when I hooked up the trailer. I had looked at some diamond plate aluminum ones and others but they were well beyond my budget and I am already a bit over budget on this trailer. I got an email from etrailer.com the other day showing a smaller poly tongue box that fit the bill perfectly and was priced fairly well.
I am leaning towards moving my spare tire mount to the underside of the deck just under the front of the trailer. My thinking is two-fold; first, it would protect the spare from UV and I wouldn't have to get a cover for it and secondly because it would clean-up the look of the tongue of the trailer without having a spare tire mounted there. I think under the trailer it is. Out of sight. That is next on the agenda for tonight.
Mike.
I used some existing aluminum ramps and just cut them down and modified them for my trailer project. First thing was to remove the tall side that existed on one side of each ramp. I removed the side rail and cut it on my vertical bandsaw then riveted it back onto the extruded aluminum sections. I also welded the end pieces and cut the flat at the end off and welded a 90-degree lip onto the end so it could sit down into a channel when needed to load or unload a wheeled item.
Here are a few of my aluminum welds on the lip end. These were not the clean, virgin aluminum that I like to weld but in the end the welds turned out fair.
I then set the trailer on the ground and took a couple pictures of it just to see the stance and overall profile.
I had been thinking long and hard about how to come up with an attachment design/system to keep the ramp from slipping when loading or unloading something. Years ago on a snowmobile trailer I modified for a friend, I used a piece of tubing welded across the rear of the trailer with corresponding pieces welded onto the ends of the ramps that would sit down on the round tubing. This worked well and looked OK, but not as aesthetically pleasing as I would have liked. I saw one the other day in a parking lot that had a piece of angle iron welded to the end of the deck in which the ramps sat down into and although the thought was there again it looked terrible. I thought about leaving the large flat section on the ramp and let is sit over the top of the rear of the deck but I worried about two things; first, scratching the crap out of the top of the rear perimeter piece of 2x3 tubing and secondly without it actually "locking" down into something it was a safety issue if it slid out from under whatever either my son or I was loading. Both of which were unacceptable outcomes.
I decided I liked the angle iron method as it was simple and effective but I didn't like the looks plus the "channel" ends up being a catch all for dirt, road spray and grime. I settled on a "modified" channel design that allowed me to use my lathe to make some small bungs that I would use as stand-offs for a piece of 1"x .250 flat bar. This would leave the bottom of the channel open for debris to fall through and wash off.
Flat bar used.
Bungs being tapped to 5/16-18 threads.
Parting off @ .250".
Five bungs threaded, parted and ready to space and weld onto the rear of the deck.
I mocked up the flat bar and bungs into a position in which would allow the ramps to sit flat or flush with the rear deck of the trailer when they are in the groove.
Bung welded onto the rear deck. Threads go through the bung as well as the rear deck threaded which is another .188" in thickness.
Overview of all five welded on the rear of the deck.
Rear ramp attachment points completed.
Open out the bottom to illeviate the possibility of debris getting trapped.
Here is a picture of one of the ramps locked into the groove to show how the ramp will sit flush with the deck.
Next up is a design change. I was originally going to mount the spare tire on the tongue just in front of the ATP that will be on the front and sides. I had wanted to come up with something for storage of tie downs so I could keep everything with the trailer rather than having to store the tie-downs in the shop and then have to remember to grab them when I hooked up the trailer. I had looked at some diamond plate aluminum ones and others but they were well beyond my budget and I am already a bit over budget on this trailer. I got an email from etrailer.com the other day showing a smaller poly tongue box that fit the bill perfectly and was priced fairly well.
I am leaning towards moving my spare tire mount to the underside of the deck just under the front of the trailer. My thinking is two-fold; first, it would protect the spare from UV and I wouldn't have to get a cover for it and secondly because it would clean-up the look of the tongue of the trailer without having a spare tire mounted there. I think under the trailer it is. Out of sight. That is next on the agenda for tonight.
Mike.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2013
- Messages
- 397
Out here in the desert part of The Lone star State we are trying a cross between the Gator and the local "Horned Lizard" or as it is more commonly called "Horny Toad". Gators don't like our hot weather, they seem to get a might cranky. The crosses should have horns and that will keep the young'ens from trying to break 'em for riding. We have plenty of Jack Rabbits to feed them. That is if they can run fast enough to catch 'em.
Thanks for the compliment! Not sure what the green plastic is, exactly, but it seems to be quite hard wearing, but also flexible. It machines very nicely, making a continuous strand that is very strong. The original piece that he gave me measured just over 4" on the outside and about 3" on the inside. I had to machine 3mm off the outside to get it round and about 3/4" from the inside to match it to the steel pipe over which it fits.
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,199
Zmotorsports-
Judging by those welds it appears your building a death trap!!
Kidding aside, they look great as per usual
When I get off work tomorrow I have a welding job on aluminum, it consists of welding 1" eighth wall to 7/8 block, about 8" long, the tube has been milled to a c shape, the best part is I only have 210amps available from my syncrowaves pedal. The customer was very happy with my test piece, maybe someday we may invest in helium to mix in, but for now the oven handles the preheat
Judging by those welds it appears your building a death trap!!
Kidding aside, they look great as per usual
When I get off work tomorrow I have a welding job on aluminum, it consists of welding 1" eighth wall to 7/8 block, about 8" long, the tube has been milled to a c shape, the best part is I only have 210amps available from my syncrowaves pedal. The customer was very happy with my test piece, maybe someday we may invest in helium to mix in, but for now the oven handles the preheat
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
Well, darn.
The gear I ordered for my lathe last Friday is the wrong gear. New gear ordered, hopefully the right one. Good news is that I didn't have to take the cross slide off to get to it. Two cap screws and two more to remove the drive screw bearing and I was able to rotate the cross slide gear housing up enough to access the gear on its shaft, which was secured with a Jesus clip on the front. There will continue to be no auto-feed on the lathe until mid-next week.
The gear I ordered for my lathe last Friday is the wrong gear. New gear ordered, hopefully the right one. Good news is that I didn't have to take the cross slide off to get to it. Two cap screws and two more to remove the drive screw bearing and I was able to rotate the cross slide gear housing up enough to access the gear on its shaft, which was secured with a Jesus clip on the front. There will continue to be no auto-feed on the lathe until mid-next week.
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2012
- Messages
- 377
Ugh, that's a bummer.
The SBC (single board computer) on my Ez Trak took a dump the other day. Been turning handles and counting (til tomorrow I hope!) since.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2013
- Messages
- 397
" There will continue to be no auto-feed on the lathe until mid-next week."
My model comes equipped with one on the end of each arm....They seldom fail to work.
My model comes equipped with one on the end of each arm....They seldom fail to work.
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2012
- Messages
- 377
Funny, slightly less so to Franko and I 
, but very true. Fortunately the Ez Trak still functions as a manual mill if the computer is mis-behaving.
It's all too easy to get attached to the niceties. I was grumbling that I had to count and watch what I was doing, but then realized I was still getting my project done!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
, but very true. Fortunately the Ez Trak still functions as a manual mill if the computer is mis-behaving. It's all too easy to get attached to the niceties. I was grumbling that I had to count and watch what I was doing, but then realized I was still getting my project done!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk