- Joined
- Dec 11, 2014
- Messages
- 891
Elaborate on the "rotating composter" please.
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2016 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter sanddan
- Start date
Elaborate on the "rotating composter" please.
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2012
- Messages
- 4,129
An expensive one but you can get the drift
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Jora...324736?hash=item25c45e9c80:g:Ly4AAOSwezVWwPun
Composts down in less than half the time of a pile.
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 415
A 30" ring of chicken wire an 3 posts is all it takes to make a composter. Keep it moist and turn it every day or so, and it'll gobble up everything you put into it.
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2015
- Messages
- 894
I decided to steal a few minutes and weld the leveling feet on my machining work bench project before my wife got home so we could watch a movie AND I could be productive tonight. I really shouldn't hurry like that...
The bolt you see here is WAY longer than I will actually be using. This was just for helping me visually align the couplers I was welding in so they were square. Except I forgot to remove the bolt on the 8th one after tacking it in. Excellent penetration, so now that one is welded in place. Brilliant.
Yes, I know I need to chase the threads with a tap because the heat distorted them. Yes, I know the welds are ugly. This welder needs work. I'm having shielding gas flow issues, this is at the extreme reach of the short gun with this bench in the way, AND the wire feed pot is acting up, with the slightest movement of the knob taking it from nasty globules because it's barely feeding to feeding too fast and repeatedly bottoming out before it melts. I really need to service the whole thing, but everything is a pain with this bench in the way. Soon...
Considering all those issues I think these welds are quite pretty.
The bolt you see here is WAY longer than I will actually be using. This was just for helping me visually align the couplers I was welding in so they were square. Except I forgot to remove the bolt on the 8th one after tacking it in. Excellent penetration, so now that one is welded in place. Brilliant.
Yes, I know I need to chase the threads with a tap because the heat distorted them. Yes, I know the welds are ugly. This welder needs work. I'm having shielding gas flow issues, this is at the extreme reach of the short gun with this bench in the way, AND the wire feed pot is acting up, with the slightest movement of the knob taking it from nasty globules because it's barely feeding to feeding too fast and repeatedly bottoming out before it melts. I really need to service the whole thing, but everything is a pain with this bench in the way. Soon...
Considering all those issues I think these welds are quite pretty.
- Joined
- May 16, 2016
- Messages
- 1,701
Exactly what I was taught to do as an apprentice. I was mostly on an old Macson which I had the job of doing up as a training project. The 4 jaw was 12"and the 3 jaw was 8" but too heavy to constantly change so I scrounged a 5""3 jaw and fitted it up with a backing plate that was a little oversize then machined true, and set that in the 4 jaw, took 3 minutes to change and no heavy lifting.
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,199
My project of the day yesterday was prepping the new machine for it's its new home, mainly removing the Z motor and cable track. I had to remove the fir additions for the garage door and cut the garage door header out in the center. Don't worry the building header is perfectly intact. Also a little teaser of some tools loaded up. The machine is still about 6inches higher than installation height. Gonna have to convert my door.......
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2015
- Messages
- 561
Today I finally finished my ER40 adapter for my King 10x 22 lathe (same as Grizzly G0602) First time doing internal threads and I had a few issues but I got it to work and to my surprise the mount was repeatable. I was expecting it not to be, so before I started reducing the opposite end and starting the tapered bore and metric threads I pulled the adapter from the lathe spindle and reinstalled it to see if it would still be concentric. I couldn't believe it but when I ran the lathe with the DTI on the end of the adapter, the needle barely moved Woooooohoooooo. The other end was much easier and went much better. Overall I am happy with the end result. I also had to make a couple of boring bars to use with my QCTP. I was only going to make one but I ran out of 1/4" HSS blanks and had to use 3/16" so I needed a smaller hole. I know I could have drilled in the other end of the first one I made but I want to keep one for 1/4" bits and the other for 3/16". Plus I want to make 45* holes in the other ends.
For the internal threads I used my homemade boring bar with an HSS bit I ground to shape and I ran the lathe in reverse with the tool facing backwards. That way I didn't have to worry about the tool crashing into the back end of the step in the adapter. That part of the process worked well. So I also used the same concept for the external threading. I like that much better than threading toward the chuck and having to worry about crashing.
The only thing left to do is drill a couple of holes and tap them for the retaining clips that hold the adapter to the lathe spindle. The only way I can think of doing this to get the holes 180* to each other is to load my rotary table and table chuck onto the mill and drilling the holes. But those things are heavy and would prefer another way of doing this. Any ideas?
For the internal threads I used my homemade boring bar with an HSS bit I ground to shape and I ran the lathe in reverse with the tool facing backwards. That way I didn't have to worry about the tool crashing into the back end of the step in the adapter. That part of the process worked well. So I also used the same concept for the external threading. I like that much better than threading toward the chuck and having to worry about crashing.
The only thing left to do is drill a couple of holes and tap them for the retaining clips that hold the adapter to the lathe spindle. The only way I can think of doing this to get the holes 180* to each other is to load my rotary table and table chuck onto the mill and drilling the holes. But those things are heavy and would prefer another way of doing this. Any ideas?
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- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 11,145
If you can drill through, then you could just hold it in the vice or clamped to the T-slot. Tap the first side, flip it over then use the drill bit to align for the other side.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2015
- Messages
- 9,645
I don't believe that the keeper have to be exactly 180º apart. More critical is the distance from the hole center to the end face. I measured .258" or 6.55mm on my 602 back plate. You could mark that distance fairly accurately using the lathe. Set your compound up at 0º and with the ER40 chuck off, touch off on the face register of the spindle. Set your dial at zero and back the compound off .258" (if your lathe is like the Grizzly, reading inches from a metric screw, you will have to add .004" for the English/metric approximation). Back the cross feed off and install the ER chuck and lightly scribe marks on your chuck. To get the 180º spacing you can put two marks next to the teeth on the spindle gear, 20 teeth apart and tape a temporary index pointer on the headstock. Align the first tooth with the index mark and scribe a horizontal line with the tool mounted on the compound. Back off and rotate to the second tooth and scribe that line. You should now have your centers for the keeper holes.