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Wait. You've got metric files?
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An Update On Mexican Made Nicholson Files
- Thread starter george wilson
- Start date
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- Jul 26, 2011
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Anything will work. But,I might say that I use non rusting wood(NEVER OAK,ETC.),when I take a board and slot it on the table saw to lay files on edge in. Some of my files might not get used for long periods of time,so I don't want to go back and find them rusty. I advise just using pine or maple or at least LIGHT woods(except oak is light). Use woods that contain little tannin as possible.
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- Jan 16, 2020
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What? Don't you have any metric files, John? Any good metalworker has a couple of metric files on hand nowadays, especially since objects made to metric measure are so common.
Aw, just messin' with ya, John. Sorry, but I couldn't resist.
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- Mar 19, 2014
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Yes, that’s a metric thread file. I have a few myself. Also, I like finding some of the old files watch/clockmakers used to use. The ones with very fine teeth. They file so smooth, it almost looks like you did it with a surface grinder.
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Ah! Now I know the identity of the rectangular object in Box One that I had dismissed as some sort of broach.
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- Sep 9, 2015
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OP, george wilson, I'm glad to hear about this update on the "hecho en Mexico" Nicholson files! I use lots of diemaker or Swiss pattern files in my hobby gunsmithing work. The last set I bought were so soft that they were useless! I bought them from a vendor at a local gun show and haven't seen him since!
My files are treated with great respect, however I was taught to never oil a file. The diemaker that I served my apprenticeship under, in the early 70s, said that a light surface rust was preferable to oil. In fact he actually treated his dull files by leaving them in a coffee can full of water out behind the shop until they "rusted sharp" again! Anyone else ever heard of this?
Another trick he taught me that I use to this day was: In his toolbox, he kept a large piece of chalk (the kind that carpenters used to recharge their string lines). He would always pass his file across the chalk to load up the teeth, before making his cut, after that, he would recharge as necessary with the chalk. The chalk would then keep chips from loading the teeth. I have never tried resharpening a file using rust, but this chalk trick really does work.
My files are treated with great respect, however I was taught to never oil a file. The diemaker that I served my apprenticeship under, in the early 70s, said that a light surface rust was preferable to oil. In fact he actually treated his dull files by leaving them in a coffee can full of water out behind the shop until they "rusted sharp" again! Anyone else ever heard of this?
Another trick he taught me that I use to this day was: In his toolbox, he kept a large piece of chalk (the kind that carpenters used to recharge their string lines). He would always pass his file across the chalk to load up the teeth, before making his cut, after that, he would recharge as necessary with the chalk. The chalk would then keep chips from loading the teeth. I have never tried resharpening a file using rust, but this chalk trick really does work.
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- Jul 26, 2011
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I never oil my files,but there are plenty of professionals who recommend it. It does make sense to oil any metal cutting tool. I just prefer to file dry. I DO oil hacksaw blades when sawing. It makes the work go faster. Chalk is a good idea on gummy metals like genuine wrought iron,which most of you will likely never actually come across. Real old iron fences,old anchors and anchor chains are a few of the things that can be made of wrought iron. It has a grain that looks like wood when it is well rusted. This is from silicone layers in the metal. I have some 1/2" square bar stock that I can actually pull the layers apart with pliers. Used because it rusts more slowly due to the silicone layers.
Other than chalking files out of necessity to prevent loading,I prefer to NOT chalk my files as it is bound to have an abrasive effect on file teeth,though it may be a mild abrasive,I avoid it.
I would never ever recommend trying to RUST YOUR FILES SHARP. That is really BAD_BAD_BAD advice. The only real way to sharpen files is by reverse electroplating. Even that results in files with crumbled looking cutting edges. Send your files to a decent file sharpening service to have them renewed. They won't be as good as new,but will have some use left in them.
Other than chalking files out of necessity to prevent loading,I prefer to NOT chalk my files as it is bound to have an abrasive effect on file teeth,though it may be a mild abrasive,I avoid it.
I would never ever recommend trying to RUST YOUR FILES SHARP. That is really BAD_BAD_BAD advice. The only real way to sharpen files is by reverse electroplating. Even that results in files with crumbled looking cutting edges. Send your files to a decent file sharpening service to have them renewed. They won't be as good as new,but will have some use left in them.
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- Dec 3, 2014
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- 778
Since Enco hasn't had a big file sale in sale flyer for over a year, I tried some Simonds files sourced thru Zoro. So far so good, way better than the soft Chinese crap that you see in hardware stores. I bought a few year supply when Zoro did a 30% off sale, not bad.
michael
michael