Becoming hobby machinist in the near future.

X powerfeed done. The image makes the DRO display look tilted, but it is actually level, darn wide angle lens.

Anyways the instructions for installing the power feed has you drill and tap the bed to attach the power feed. But in the box there was a clamp attached to the mounting bracket that fit perfectly on the bed and does not require drilling and tapping. Since the instructions are from 2017 I am guessing that this was a part that was not available on the power feeds then. It installed very easily with any drilling or tapping. The feed is very smooth and the only time it makes any clicking noises it when you first engage the motor if the internal gears are not meshed (one click as they mesh to engage.

Next is the Z power feed. The bracket that they sent for the endstops is different than they instructions show (the bracket in the manual has a predrilled hole 90 degrees to the bracket, mine does not), and since the DRO is mounted where they show the Z endstop bracket I will need to figure out where to put it.

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I was also anticipating drilling and tapping the end of my table for the X power feed. But my unit also contained the bracket that just bolts/clamps in place. Really nice fit. I didn't like the cheesy plastic stops that came with it though. I will be making an aluminum set with the mill.

On the Z power feed bracket I had to drill holes for the attaching bolts as well as clearance holes to tighten them.
 

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My SN is 20004 so you may be right on that. The hole in the top of the sheet metal cover measures 1.950". Here's a few pics of other measurements. The one measurement is the overall length of the draw bar including the Hex top portion.
How large is the hole in the sheet metal (the access port) where the tool needs to go?
 
As far as backlash, My PM-833T's X-axis is 0.011" and Y-axis is 0.015". I am not sure if these number can be reduced. FWIW, there was this thread that discussed the issue.

Rodneyk, is that PF you just installed the one listed on the PM-833T/TV page? The brand is Align base on your picture, but that information is not indicated on the PM page, so I am wondering.
 
As far as backlash, My PM-833T's X-axis is 0.011" and Y-axis is 0.015". I am not sure if these number can be reduced. FWIW, there was this thread that discussed the issue.
That is too much backlash. I suspect the handle is loose on the leadscrew, or the split nut is not fully secured. The thread you called out goes through the diagnostic and correction process. The split nuts on my PM935 were also loose enough to give way under climb cutting which was causing broken end mills as the table lurched forward and the tool tried to take a 0.015" depth of cut into stainless.
 
As far as backlash, My PM-833T's X-axis is 0.011" and Y-axis is 0.015". I am not sure if these number can be reduced. FWIW, there was this thread that discussed the issue.

Rodneyk, is that PF you just installed the one listed on the PM-833T/TV page? The brand is Align base on your picture, but that information is not indicated on the PM page, so I am wondering.
I ordered on the Phone because I wanted the mag dro which was not available on the web site at the time. So because I was talking to a human at the time I cannot know for sure if it was something from the website.

The invoice shows:
PF-PM-833T-X
PF-PM-833T-Z

Both units that I received are Align units.
 
FWIW, there was this thread that discussed the issue.
I might be confused but in that video isn't he adjusting the X axis backlash and not the Y? Or do those bolts go through and hold the Y axis nut as well?
 
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That is too much backlash. I suspect the handle is loose on the leadscrew, or the split nut is not fully secured. The thread you called out goes through the diagnostic and correction process. The split nuts on my PM935 were also loose enough to give way under climb cutting which was causing broken end mills as the table lurched forward and the tool tried to take a 0.015" depth of cut into stainless.
The backlash is pretty big on my machine too (0.008"X & Y - 8 ticks on the dial) but the Z is pretty good at less than 0.001" on the dial.
The DRO makes it less of an issue since I can plan around X&Y lash for now.

After looking at the backlash thread noted above (the video is much lower in the thread than noted) I realize then 8 thousands is not nearly as bad as the people in that thread. They were moving the handle 8 major ticks (80 small ticks) where as mine is 8 small ticks. Still 4 would be twice as good...
 
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