Finally starting... let the adventure begin.

[7milesup]

Here is a picture of part of my shop. I utilized corrugated steel for the bottom 40" or so, partly for looks and partly for fire prevention should I develop any sparks or similar.

 

[ArmyDoc]

I dont get these prices.... there is only a $5 price spread between 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 inch thick plywood right now. Even severe weather is only $38.50 (It was over $75 a month ago if you could find it.) OSB is similar for thicker, but the 7/16 4x8 is only $15/sheet. 5/8 sheet rock is only $13... but I worry about it's durablity.

 

[pontiac428]

I was thinking about putting some of the aluminum siding in the grinding and welding areas, but it's kind of pricey. How does hardy board hold up? true hardy board is $45/ 4x8 sheet. They also sell hardy backer board - is that what you meant?

The backer is what I had considered. I may still do a little "wainscot" around my welding area with it. The stuff is tough, but it wouldn't be good for hanging stuff from, either. It sounds like prices have come down, with a smaller gap between OSB and ply, making plywood a better choice.

 

[ArmyDoc]

The backer is what I had considered. I may still do a little "wainscot" around my welding area with it. The stuff is tough, but it wouldn't be good for hanging stuff from, either. It sounds like prices have come down, with a smaller gap between OSB and ply, making plywood a better choice.

With the 3/4 being only a few dollars more than 5/8, I may just go with 3/4 and no 2x4s under it - just screw it directly to the perlins. For the welding area, it may be cheaper to put aluminu roofing wainscotting than the backer board, or put 1/2 sheet rock over 1/2 inch OSB, at a cost of about cost of 11+15= $26/ sheet.

 

[pontiac428]

Is insulation a consideration for you? I did it for temperature regulation and for noise control. It was a modest expense compared to the price of the building, and I knew it would be tough to do after the fact. It really keeps the noise down, the neighbors don't hear much of what I do in there. The challenge was that I needed to add enough 2x6 framing between the poles to hang 24" battens. Pole barn construction does not leave much to anchor to. So I did that, and sheeted with OSB, which is fine, but it does make it difficult to hang or mount things to. My "studs" are on 24" horizontal centers, so not a lot of anchor points there. When I hang things on the OSB, I use mollies or drywall anchors. That's pretty good, but it's not like I can just drive a nail or screw and hang some weight on it. I have to plan it out, use additional bracing and anchors. I certainly won't be mounting a shelf for 20' steel stock up high on the wall like I would like to. It's not a deal breaker, but it is something for you to consider as you plan.

 

[ArmyDoc]

Is insulation a consideration for you? I did it for temperature regulation and for noise control. It was a modest expense compared to the price of the building, and I knew it would be tough to do after the fact. It really keeps the noise down, the neighbors don't hear much of what I do in there. The challenge was that I needed to add enough 2x6 framing between the poles to hang 24" battens. Pole barn construction does not leave much to anchor to. So I did that, and sheeted with OSB, which is fine, but it does make it difficult to hang or mount things to. My "studs" are on 24" horizontal centers, so not a lot of anchor points there. When I hang things on the OSB, I use mollies or drywall anchors. That's pretty good, but it's not like I can just drive a nail or screw and hang some weight on it. I have to plan it out, use additional bracing and anchors. I certainly won't be mounting a shelf for 20' steel stock up high on the wall like I would like to. It's not a deal breaker, but it is something for you to consider as you plan.

I have R13 (14?) Under the outside metal Siding. I can put more between the horizontal Perlins (they are 6 inches deep) but I wasn't planning on it. Money is tight and progress will be incremental at this stage.

 

[rmantoo]

The inside walls of my reloading and machine areas are all 3/4” plywood, painted with white, glossy, fire retardant added, industrial paint.

Easy to wash and clean, and a bit more protected from sparks/ignition than most paints.
The 3/4” ply lets me Hang just about anything I want to with no worries.

 

[Eddyde]

As a builder, I work a lot with OSB, I don't recommend it as a finished surface as it can generate nasty splinters, it also off gases quite bit when exposed. I'd say ⅝" ply minimum if you want to hang stuff, ¾" would be ideal. you can laminate ¼" Hardy Board over. the ply and have fire protection and hanging ability. The hardy board is durable and can be painted.

 

[ArmyDoc]

As a builder, I work a lot with OSB, I don't recommend it as a finished surface as it can generate nasty splinters, it also off gases quite bit when exposed. I'd say ⅝" ply minimum if you want to hang stuff, ¾" would be ideal. you can laminate ¼" Hardy Board over. the ply and have fire protection and hanging ability. The hardy board is durable and can be painted.

How do you feel about 1/2 inch OSB with 1/4 hardy board over for grinding/welding area? Only problem is it comes in 3x5ft... Which doesn't seem to work well with 4x8 sheets for half a wall height. Other option might be sheet rock over 1/2... or just use the fire retardant paint over 3/4... decisions decisions.

Right now thinking 3/4 inch for most areas, unless 5/8 comes down significantly in price. If 5/8 were $20-25 i would go with it, but with 5/8 ag $31 and 3/4 at 34.50 a sheet, it seems like a no brainer to go with 3/4

 

[pontiac428]

The new glues don't gas off formaldehyde or acetic acid anymore. I can't detect any odor at all from them. I'm guessing they moved to partially-polymerized isocyanates now. The smooth side has a thicker seal coat to keep chips from lifting off and causing splinters. I hope that it lasts. Either way, there's hardly any sense in considering OSB with the current pricing compared to plywood.

It's just so dark.