2013 POTD Thread Archive

[ARM]

making the most of some spare evenings to get on with my various projects in the garage.

Then I used the bandsaw to cut a piece of alu plate to make a pill for an LED light conversion on my drill press
View attachment 66076
View attachment 66077
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View attachment 66079

The pill is tapered to fit in the bottom of the old light housing. Now I need to drill and tap the screws to hold the pill in the light and the LED to the pill, then it's just a case of wiring in the LED and driver.

Hello MATTHEMUPPET
Thanks a mill for posting these pics.

U see what U may take for granted is really another opportunity for a Rookie to learn a lesson, especially Your method for making THE PILL.
What we really liked are Your detailed pics from start to finish, truly worth a thousand words, especially the second last pic which shows the COLLAR, WASHER and ALLEN HEAD BOLT to hold things together when U turned the PILL !!!
Had mentally grappled with turning discs etc., now U put the plan together !!!
Kudos to U, Sir.
May we say that THE PILL can, after this, now be grabbed in the chuck and both FACES skimmed/cleaned true ???
We will know for certain, and with confidence, what to do the next time around.
LORD BLESS
aRM

 

[ARM]

From ugly paint to polish. Never liked paint on a carburetor, so I stripped the dashpot on one of the two SU HS-4 carbs I have. It was still pretty ugly with dents, dings, and scratches. Chucked it up in the lathe and skim cut until the outside was reasonably smooth, followed with wet sanding, jewelers rouge, and final buffing with white polishing paste. Still have to do the carb body and float bowl. This carb will go on a stroker View attachment 660662287cc VW Type 1 that I'm building up for an aircraft.

Tom

Hello TOM
Just curious how U "CHUCKED IT UP" in the lathe, without damaging the profile ???
It's always........"now how did he do that" - ticking alarm bells !!!
Thanks a stack in advance.
aRM

 

[ARM]

Trying to control chips in my basement shop. No matter how careful I am some chips find their way upstairs. My main concern is the grandkids. I made a mat using 1x2's alternating full length pieces with short pieces for spacers and held together with 1/4 x 20 threaded rod. The chips fall right thru and can be vacuumed up when they accumulate. Easy on the feet, too.

Another good idea, well worth imitating. We have the same problem, except we have plastic squares which don't do the right thing. They are in the wrong place !!!
aRM

 

[tarmo120]

My late night project was a adjusting knob for my car camcorder.
The original knob was thin soft plastic which just broke off.
I took a random aluminium stock that was about the same diameter of the original knob.
Faced it, turned the outer diameter just to be clean.
Threaded it to M4 inside and even made 8 lines across the part.

I did not use any special tools for this.
I drew 8 lines on the face of the part just for referance.
Mounted the 60 degree thread tool sideways and just did a few plunge passes.
From right to left with the spindle off. Worked great.
Then just used a bit of emery cloth and parted off. Done.

 

[n3480h]

Hello TOM
Just curious how U "CHUCKED IT UP" in the lathe, without damaging the profile ???
It's always........"now how did he do that" - ticking alarm bells !!!
Thanks a stack in advance.
aRM

Hi ARM,
Made a flanged disc to fit the ID to keep it from deforming. Checked piston drop time after polishing and it was still the specified 7 seconds, so I know it did not deform.

Tom

 

[pestilence]

Today I trammed my G0704 and continued working on a pair of tramming indicators. One is for me and another is for a good friend for Christmas. The mill needed .007 shims between the column and the top of the Y axis dovetail to be square that way. The column bolts were so tight I needed a rifle action wrench as a cheater. I snugged them back up using it too. The tramming fixtures still aren't complete. I used a couple of Kant Twist clamps to hold the indicators in place.

 

[David Kirtley]

A day late but this weekend I finally got around to making some leadnuts for my CNC router project. They are for 1/2-10 Acme. I didn't feel like messing with automatic adjusters and just *made* some manual ones. Really, they are adjusters. Somehow these got mixed in with some hose clamps. I don't know how that happened.



I also got around to making a screw for closing the bandsaw blade guard. I wanted one that I didn't need a wrench to open. 1/2 in brass with knurling and decorative grooves "Just Because." Threaded M6X1.0 to fit existing threaded hole. It is a bit long but I wanted it easy to grab.

 

[CNC Dude]

I also got around to making a screw for closing the bandsaw blade guard. I wanted one that I didn't need a wrench to open. 1/2 in brass with knurling and decorative grooves "Just Because." Threaded M6X1.0 to fit existing threaded hole. It is a bit long but I wanted it easy to grab.

I have no idea how much time I have wasted removing the darned screw on my saw when changing blades. I have thought of remaking this screw yet another unknown amount of times, but have of course never come to get it done. I think I will take advantage of this post, get some inspiration and just DO IT! Looks awesome!

 

[mattthemuppet2]

Hello MATTHEMUPPET
Thanks a mill for posting these pics.

U see what U may take for granted is really another opportunity for a Rookie to learn a lesson, especially Your method for making THE PILL.
What we really liked are Your detailed pics from start to finish, truly worth a thousand words, especially the second last pic which shows the COLLAR, WASHER and ALLEN HEAD BOLT to hold things together when U turned the PILL !!!
Had mentally grappled with turning discs etc., now U put the plan together !!!
Kudos to U, Sir.
May we say that THE PILL can, after this, now be grabbed in the chuck and both FACES skimmed/cleaned true ???
We will know for certain, and with confidence, what to do the next time around.
LORD BLESS
aRM

you're welcome ARM and thanks! I'm now putting into practice some of what I've learned here and on other machining forums, so it's neat to post up stuff that's new to me even if it's old hat to others. I plan on skimming and polishing the largest diameter face after I've drilled and tapped the holes for the LED. A flat and smooth surface is a big boon in thermal transfer, even though this particular LED isn't going to be driven all that hard.

More to come, although I may put it all in a separate thread so it's in one place. Hoping to get to it tomorrow night.

 

[ARM]

you're welcome ARM and thanks! I'm now putting into practice some of what I've learned here and on other machining forums, so it's neat to post up stuff that's new to me even if it's old hat to others. I plan on skimming and polishing the largest diameter face after I've drilled and tapped the holes for the LED. A flat and smooth surface is a big boon in thermal transfer, even though this particular LED isn't going to be driven all that hard.

More to come, although I may put it all in a separate thread so it's in one place. Hoping to get to it tomorrow night.

Look forward to seeing that.
Keep 'em rolling, as there's always somebody who will benefit from Your postings.
All the best
aRM