2013 POTD Thread Archive

[papermaker]

I started out making new soft jaws for my milling vise. Those came out so good I thought it be a good time to cut a new register in the base of the milling vise. The original register that was cut in China was off and the screw holes for the keys were also off by a little. Everytime the screws were put back in the threads would strip. Got the channel milled tonight and tomorrow new holes will be drilled and tapped,

 

[pestilence]

What is the size of the stock you ordered? I like the rounded edges and would like to build something similar for another tool post I have ordered.

Shawn

Something more like 1 5/8. I'm telling you though that I milled each flat down until the bar was 1.25" thick before I ever put it in the lathe. Starting with 1.25" in the first place would be a lot easier

 

[Farmer Dodds]

This was a couple of weeks ago, too busy to be on the computer every day. Dad (92) brought me half of a variable speed pulley from a combine (14") that was wore out to say the least. He said $500.00 for a new one, could I do anything with it? So I cut out the old grease surface and braized the inside of the pulley as best I could.

then I turned out the center to 1 3/4". This thing had almost half and inch play on one side when mounted on the shaft.


This is what it looked like when I turned out the center.
The last pic is turning the shaft to size.

Had to cut an "O" ring groove into the inside of the pulley as a grease stopper.
The end of the shaft was a bit wobbly when first put onto the lathe, It was out .055 thou.
Tried heat to get it back but had to chain up a jack to bend the end. Seemed to be bent about the keyway.
Finally got it to .005 thou. and decided it wasn't going to get much closer.
It's running on the combine now so the fix worked.
Should have taken more photos but when your busy, it's the last thing on your mind.
Stan

 

[Old Iron]

I got bored yesterday so I dug out my old SKS and starting machining the receiver.

Getting close I'll get it finished today.

 

[GK1918]

I've often wondered about inserts. I have a Hudson 308 block that it was done to, by a pro. engine machine shop, and I keep thinking about the difference of shrink and stretch of the inserts compared to the cast iron block. and if your fixing a "cracked seat" in the block like mine was, why does the crack just not open up and let the new seat fall right out ? can someone offer an easy explaination ? ?

Are you saying the block has cracks common on V8 Fords mainly trucks? I would'nt worry too much as long as water dont come out. You have to be real careful sneaking up to a final counter bore. Then with inserts left in the freezer over nite, they will go right in (seats have a champerd edge) then old time common practice is to "stake" them. Then when said seats warm up, they swell up. Then common sense dictates valve in block engines cant fall out its the law of gravity. Cyl. pressure keeps them seated. (down) we are only talking about low
comp. on these, far from a racing engine build. Your Hudson most likely is set in the area of .009 and .012 or something so where are the
seats really going to go being around .250 thick?? Thats why we use the shop vac held on ports watch your fingers when the valve slams
shut then a little light oil applied there should be no leakage cause you can see it. And the shop vac hose stays there with no help.
Thats the perfect seal. sam

 

[schor]

I started a drill press depth stop for a friend. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...You-Do-in-Your-Shop-Today?p=147079#post147079

Well, I finally got around to getting most of it done.

I had the bolt holes drilled to depth for tapping, then drilled out the clearance down to about .05 below where I cut the spindle end.



After that I tapped the holes and finished them with a bottom tap (thanks Matt, he just cuts and grinds an old tap to make a bottom tap).



Now I need to drill the counterbore to the right depth so I catch enough threads and don't bottom out. .75 seems to me about right. Hmm, wonder if I should use a depth stop for this next drill operation, na, let's just use a sharpie.



Looks about right to me.



Dry fit How tight are we now after the cut?



Looks good to an apprentice. Let's hack off some metal.




A little bit of filing/sanding/grinding(?) and it should be done.

It almost took me longer to create this post and take the pictures than it did to do what I did today.

- - - Updated - - -

Missed the final pics in that post.

 

[blacksmithden]

Got half way through making up some cam lock studs for a driver plate I have planned. Then I felt tired. The beautiful thing about having a machine shop in the garage rather than at work....when you get tired, you just shut off the lights, walk 30 ft to the couch and relax. The stud in my hand is out of my 4 jaw chuck. Just making up 3 more of the same for the plate.

 

[schor]

Got it done. Well, maybe a bit more polishing.

 

[DaveInPA]

Finished up my first 80% AR15 lower, shown below mated to the upper half of a Colt 6520.

 

[Ray C]

Oh boy... so that's what it looks like when they're born! Awwwww....

Got half way through making up some cam lock studs for a driver plate I have planned. Then I felt tired. The beautiful thing about having a machine shop in the garage rather than at work....when you get tired, you just shut off the lights, walk 30 ft to the couch and relax. The stud in my hand is out of my 4 jaw chuck. Just making up 3 more of the same for the plate.