2014 POTD Thread Archive

[epanzella]

Try using 7014 "contact rod" welding rods. The flux is rigid enough to maintain the proper arc distance as you drag it across the welding surface. Allows a ham-fisted welder to look like a pro. (Little skill is required to make a very good looking bead.) After each pass, one has to break off the flux to expose the electrode in order to re-establish the arc. Dragging the rod across a cement floor (or a small piece of Hardie cement board on your welding table) will do the trick.
The Harbor Freight electronic welding helmets (under $40 on sale) are wonderful for a new or old weldor.

If memory serves 7024 is a contact rod.

 

[RWL]

Try using 7014 "contact rod" welding rods. The flux is rigid enough to maintain the proper arc distance as you drag it across the welding surface. Allows a ham-fisted welder to look like a pro.

Aside from the extra 10K psi of tensile strength, how does 7014 differ from 6013? Where would you use 7014 over 6013?

 

[HACKMASTER]

Fantastic job! But what's that 3-spoke "dial" in the lower part of the first photo? Looks for all the world like the combination dial from a safe. Security measure to keep away unauthorized users???)

speed change gears

 

[ARM]

Hi Guys
Grandson wanted some help with his shoddy Gym Training Equipment, so we made him a set of Dumb bells to use.
This project, like any other, greatly assisted in me getting used to my Lathe. For starters, there's the obvious Turning, then Tapers and we got an opportunity to try Knurling as well. Not a super precision job as U Guys can see, but they would suffice for a lifetime, we are certain !!!
Thanks for looking.
Regards
aRM

 

[ScrapMetal]

Hi Guys
Grandson wanted some help with his shoddy Gym Training Equipment, so we made him a set of Dumb bells to use.
This project, like any other, greatly assisted in me getting used to my Lathe. For starters, there's the obvious Turning, then Tapers and we got an opportunity to try Knurling as well. Not a super precision job as U Guys can see, but they would suffice for a lifetime, we are certain !!!
Thanks for looking.
Regards
aRMView attachment 82917View attachment 82918

Those look pretty darn good to me. If I may ask, what kind of steel did you use to make them with? My son has just gotten into "lifting" a bit and I may just have to "borrow" your design to make a set for him.

Thanks,

-Ron

 

[pipehack]

Those are Bad A$$!!!! Lucky Grandson.

- - - Updated - - -

Those are Bad A$$!!!! Lucky Grandson.

 

[xalky]

Last weekend I bought a hydraulic tracer attachment for my 20" lathe. I began hooking it up a little nightly. Still working on getting it setup. I can't wait to get it up and running. This ought to be fun.

 

[Whyemier]

This is the continuation of what I think of as my rather mediocre project, after seeing the excellent work you all have done. Be that as it may, I started a post and I'm going to finish it.

I began work on a 3C collet block (5 days ago, not enough shop time), only to learn that my collets were #2 or 2C after I got too far along to just trash the material (you'd think a guy would know). So I adjusted and continued if for nothing else the relearning of a skill half forgotten. Below is where I am at the moment.





I need to add a retaining pin for the collet and a bit of 'fitting' on the collet nut. I was going to lap the nut and block this evening but could not find my lapping compound. Hmmmm? I had the last time I used it.

 

[Hawkeye]

I started using my mist cooler yesterday. It uses an air jet to clear chips and adds a bit of coolant to the cutter. The air jet blows the chips a fair distance from the mill, so I made up an adjustable shield to attach to the Victoria.

The shield consists of a bar that clamps to the dovetail on the mill overarm, with two threaded rods running down from the ends. Horizontal rods hold two vinyl curtains coming in from both sides of the mill arbor.


Front view. The rods are easily adjusted by loosening the nuts.


The vinyl tends to curve when you cut small pieces of it. Another possibility is 1/16" polycarbonate. Since I will need several sizes of curtain for use with different size cutters, I'll try some of that next time.

 

[MozamPete]

Decided to make a rest/guide for the bench grinder to provide some consistency when grinding my lathe tools.

The plan was to use some large angle iron I had (70 x 70 x 10mm) to make a heavier rest and mill a groove to allow various guides, which I would make at different angles, to slide parallel to the face.




It works, but not as well as I had hoped. Mounting the rest off the wheel guard is not stiff enough and the flexing can probably equate to a degree or two movement at the tool face. Is a vast improvement over the small factory rest and just grinding my tools my eye, but I think I will start looking for plans for a more elaborate rest that mounts off the bench such as a Harold Hall.