70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

Pulled off the rear line at the combo valve, opened each bleeder valve in turn and blew ~24 psi through with no problem.
Combo valve wept appropriately as well, so no constriction there, or at least not at atmospheric pressure.
Low vacuum at LR pulled fluid eventually, with only tiny bubbles, so that seems OK
RR seems to have a constriction or sum'n, will have to take another look for kinks, etc in the cold light o' day and re-evaluate.
Also noticed differential is leaking, which will require at least LR line to be removed to install a new gasket, so going to fab new lines for both sides while I'm at it.
 
Some where from the “T” block to the wheels must be the issue. I have to change the fluid on our old car as well. The master cylinder is mounted at floor level so the gravity flow is pretty poor.
Pierre
 
pdentrem said:
Some where from the “T” block to the wheels must be the issue. I have to change the fluid on our old car as well. The master cylinder is mounted at floor level so the gravity flow is pretty poor.
Pierre
Click to expand...

Even more fun with drums and old skool inline residual pressure valves, I'd imagine
 
I am now the proud owner of 3 different bleeding devices.
Mityvac(which I have owned for 20+ years and it does other tricks, so that doesn't count)
Harbor Fraught pressure-->vacuum thing(which will only live for 20 minutes, so that doesn't count)
Motive Pressure bleeder, which may or may not stay sealed on the shelf before the next time I need it
I also have a power vac bleeder that the neighbor loaned me, (but moar vackyoom! ain't the answer here)

I may just throw one under each wheel when I need to stop the car and call it good
 
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I've tried some of that stuff too. I own 3 mityvacs for the same reason I own a dozen tape measures, they're never there when really needed so they multiply!

That said, my number of brake systems successfully bled with a mityvac: Zero!

I was a pro for a long time, and the only way to bleed brakes right is to pump, hold, loosen bleeder, tighten bleeder, pump, hold...

I don't remember which way my brake lines went on the C10 that I loved for 18 years, but some brake systems are split front to rear while others are corner to corner. It's usually safe to start furthest from the MC (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest (driver front).

Residual pressure valves should not affect bleeding unless you are reverse bleeding.
 
Motive bleeder did the trick, piece of cake.

Problem was, the thing came in kit form ;-)
Missing an o-ring for the container, and the clamping system they supply is literally screw hooks and swingset chain, so the tighter you make it on the edges, the more the center flexes upwards and leaks.
I was in no mood to return it and wait, so I glopped some Versakem #2 on the jug and lid and c-clamped the reservoir adapter on. Took some strap wrench torque to seal the lid, but once I got finished building the tool, it worked great :-\

There was some purple grease sealing the pump piston, which seemed odd. Better yet, the rubber gasket on the reservoir lid adapter was glued on with some adhesive that's soluble in brake fluid, so IDK if I'll have to glue that thing back on next time.
Bizarre, but ultimately successful
 

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Diff gasket is leaking, as mentioned. Shadow doesn't help, but looks like it's weeping at the axles too.
 

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Catching up on uploaded pix....
Other than the old wheel cylinders leaking(since replaced), drums looked nice inside, so I left those alone.
I may rebuild those cylinders just to say I have that skill, and set them on the shelf for a few decades.
 

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