[How-To] 7x12 - compound removal / 4-jaw chuck

I may of misunderstood what I read in the past. I thought it was about cantilevered forces. I just use the compound tightened down on mine. I thought about making another hole for a slide lock but I just tighten one of the gib screws to lock it.
 
I may of misunderstood what I read in the past. I thought it was about cantilevered forces. I just use the compound tightened down on mine. I thought about making another hole for a slide lock but I just tighten one of the gib screws to lock it.
Cantilever forces do play into the story. Like you, I have found that tightening up things greatly improves things, especially the compound. Adding extra holes and features to a mini is a good thing, if thought through. Tightening a gib screw to lock things works fine too.

One thing I have seen is the metal surrounding the tool post threads in the compound being raised slightly above the compound surface. This is bad and needs to be stoned off. The raised threads prevent the tool post from firmly seating on the compound, which can allow rocking or even rotation under cutting forces. A flat surface prevents that from happening. These are the little things that may not be apparent to new users. It certainly surprised me to find that. But this was only found because I was taking things apart. To the extent that is possible, I recommend taking stuff apart, just to see how everything works. Sometimes you find things that you can improve a lot with minor effort. Once I fixed the protruding female threads on the compound, the lathe worked a lot better.
 
Back to the chuck. I currently have the stock 3-inch 3-jaw and need the adapter plate. Will I regret making a 4-jaw independent chuck my default chuck? It looks like hex stock is the only thing it can't do. Am I going to want a 4-inch 3-jaw scroll chuck later or is swapping the plate no bigger deal than swapping the chucks?
 
4inch 4jaw independent is a great chuck. I’ve had mine on for quite a while to force my self to get good at centering work. I don’t swap them often.
 
So I see a TON of places selling the chucks. Ebay. Amazon. LMS. Dozens of sellers at the first two. LMS seems to be one of the only places selling adapter plates. A few ebay sellers but they're several times the cost. Which is fine - I try to shop there when I can but his shipping adds up quick and I've recently bought several orders.

But what's the deal on the disparity - is it necessary? Do folks make their own? Normally LMS is rarely the best 'deal' but on this one they seem to be, which adds to the mystery.
 
An independent 4 jaw chuck will hold hex stock just fine. Capture two flats with opposing jawa and two points with the other set of jaws.
 
So I see a TON of places selling the chucks. Ebay. Amazon. LMS. Dozens of sellers at the first two. LMS seems to be one of the only places selling adapter plates. A few ebay sellers but they're several times the cost. Which is fine - I try to shop there when I can but his shipping adds up quick and I've recently bought several orders.

But what's the deal on the disparity - is it necessary? Do folks make their own? Normally LMS is rarely the best 'deal' but on this one they seem to be, which adds to the mystery.
I've made my own back plate from a chunk of cast iron. That was because I couldn't buy one at the time. (Pandemic supply problems.) That being said, if you can buy one, just do it. It will be cheaper to buy than the raw material cost.

So buy it from LMS. If you buy both the chuck and back plate from them, you will know that they will fit together.
 
I was just puzzled. The Internet has no shortage of people willing to sell conveniences you don't exactly need, and the chuck to adapter plate ratio looked weird.
 
It definitely has room for improvement on setup, but as I was reading I was seeing tons and tons of folks saying these 7x lathes can really benefit from it and just put it back on if you want to do tapers.

That's the trouble with the internet....... You can find whatever you want to find. Good fixes to bad engineering. Good workarounds for all kinds of things. And mostly, you'll fnd a plethora of solutions that are looking for a problem to solve. And being the internet, those solutions, valid or otherwise, will range from no good, making huge money from "hits" generated just by the plain stupidness of the situation, right up to excellent, complete, thorough, and well thought out things that are actually improvements. And frankly, until you're an expert, it can be really hard to know the difference. Then you're headed down a rabbit hole because you're convinced you need "this", you're trying solutions on top of solutions to fix "this", you're preemptively fixing everything to address "this", and in all reality, the only thing you really wanted was "that", but you didn't know it until you were already underwater with "this"... It's a rabbit hole inside a rabbit hole, and it's terribly easy to get lost in it.

Everyone with a small lathe (or any lathe probably) has their own expectations of it, their own hopes and dreams, their own end goals for it, their own projects, and their own specific interest of materials and work to complete with it. My advice is to start with what you've got. Set up "everything". Get all the bearings, gibs, slides, ways, and generally everything that moves so that it's as good as it can be. Don't go upgrade everything right out of the gate, just get them to working how they should. No upgrades are going to help (much) if you don't start right at the beginning, That is the original, as is lathe. Until that is made as good as it can be, anything you build or buy to bolt onto it will be effectvely bolted to a marshmallow. It won't deflect in and of it's self, but it's still gonna be all over the place.

After that's sorted out, do you still need (or want) to add a plinth in place of the compound? I dunno.... But with the carriage snugged up and properly fit, it'll at least be the most rigid place you can provide to put said plinth.

After that, and assuming you still want to do the plinth (which may well be the case), What does the lathe look like with the compound off? What tools and equipment to you have to work with. What needs to be done and how can you do it? Borrowing is fine, but not at the expense of your own needs, wants, and a good dose of forethought and creativity. What tool post is going onto it, and is that tool post necessary, or is it a necessary adaptation to the plinth? Must the plinth be square or "cuboid"? Is there a "round" shape that might do what you need done without being in the way? I have no idea, but a round one worked great in my situation.

OK, with out of the way, here's my thoughts on stuff.

Oversized chucks are quite possible, and do work just as you'd expect, as long as your expectations are reasonable. As the diameter increases in inches or millimeters (doesn't matter), the scale of them increases geometrically. They get thicker, heavier, bulkier, the jaws stick out further, the motor takes longer to spool up, the whole thing takes longer to turn off, you need to pay closer attention to setups, you need to space projects off of the face of the chuck more often.... I'd say that unless you had a NEED for a larger chuck, it's probably not going to be that great of an investment. It'll work of course, and maybe (probably) even work well, but the chuck you're going to be the happiest with is the one that fits the most of your work the best. How big is the block of metal you want to work with? What other projects do you have lined up? Bottom line, do you NEED bigger?

The plinth/compound elimination? How long does it take to change back and forth on one of those? I can tell you that did this, and can remove and install my compound in under a minute. Here's what happens though. When I need the plinth, there's no other option, so on it goes. It stays that way forever, because I don't care one way or the other. Then I want the compound, so I switch. And it stays that way because I don't care. There is one thing that I do that "requires" that plinth. 99 percent of my rigidity problems went away not with lathe upgrades, but rather with me becoming more and more proficient in grinding tool bits that keep the cutting effort and tool pressure at manageable levels.
 
After a bit of shipping/communication issues, my 4-jaw chuck finally arrived. My first attempt I got it dialed in to about 0.004", but man that was tedious. The last bit isn't so bad but the rough initial dialing in was a bit more difficult. I think my dial indicator holding needs some work - as it wants to wander. I wonder if maybe a toolpost indicator holder might be a worthwhile project.

(First order of business is fixing my 250-007 to approximate a 250-007T by trying to take enough off the bottom for my parting tool to reach center
 
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