[How-To] 7x12 - compound removal / 4-jaw chuck

After a bit of shipping/communication issues, my 4-jaw chuck finally arrived. My first attempt I got it dialed in to about 0.004", but man that was tedious. The last bit isn't so bad but the rough initial dialing in was a bit more difficult. I think my dial indicator holding needs some work - as it wants to wander. I wonder if maybe a toolpost indicator holder might be a worthwhile project.

(First order of business is fixing my 250-007 to approximate a 250-007T by trying to take enough off the bottom for my parting tool to reach center
I recommend watching a video on centering work in the four jaw. It seems tedious at first but the gist is your average your high and low numbers and set that to zero then adjust all the points to zero. Redo it till you get it down.
 
After a bit of shipping/communication issues, my 4-jaw chuck finally arrived. My first attempt I got it dialed in to about 0.004", but man that was tedious. The last bit isn't so bad but the rough initial dialing in was a bit more difficult.

Practice will make that part come quickly. Focus on two opposing jaws at a time, and ignore everything else. Use the right tool for the job. This is kind of "extra steps", but kind of not, because you're not really setting up anything additional. (Arguably. (I use one thing, but anything handy will substitute....). Initially, use the lines on the face of the chuck to approximate the jaws equally. Before and after you set the part in. When you spin the chuck, if it's swinging all over the place, straighten it visually until it's kinda close. No measurements. Just pick two opposing jaws, then get those two jaws lined up. Ignore the other two until you're happy. Then the same for the other two opposing jaws. Then, move the tool, empty tool post, an empty indicator stand, or anything you've got to be close to the part, and use it as a non-micrometer visual aide. I kind of like a tiny little (six inch?) combination square set on the bed ways standing up. Same thing. Adjust the two pairs of opposing jaws, one pair at a time, ignoring the other. Then drag out the micrometer. As with many things, I find that using a fine measuring tool for coarse adjustments just complicates things.

I think my dial indicator holding needs some work - as it wants to wander. I wonder if maybe a toolpost indicator holder might be a worthwhile project.

If you think that, you're probably right... Indicators shouldn't wander. They can be fiddly, but it should oughtta sit pretty much where you put it. How/when is it doing this? A cheap magnetic stand should be plenty stable for dialing in round parts. How are you setting it up? And are you setting it up to measure the initial "crazy" runout when you first toss a part in the chuck, or is it still moving when you're down to the last few thousandths? You will (in almost all circumstances) want to make sure you're hand spinning the chuck in the same direction while you're taking measurements, but it should stay pretty steady. You can also set even a crap indicator to repeat no matter which way you move the chuck, but kind of the next evolution, getting it to not wander is first/

Given that you're using a quick change tool post, then a tool post indicator holder might very well be a useful, productive, and enjoyable addition. I've got one in mind for mine, without the quick change. It's on the list. You know the list, Been on that list for a long time..... On the other hand, a basic stand works just fine for this. I'd personally want to sort out why the indicator/stand isn't working out first, before I mounted an indicator that rigidly as on the tool post. That's NOT gonna move if something tickles the indicator tip in the wrong way, or if it unexpectedly over travels. But if you've got a handle on those two things, it's quick and easy, and it's your most common measurement, so it only makes sense.

Solving the wiggly micrometer stand/holder problem is kind of an important thing overall, as you can't do much accurate work if you can't measure it. So you will need this answer anyhow.
 
Yeah, i ended up just spinning it and eyeballing it to grossly center it. Crap indicator is all i got right now (HF). I did buy a 3/8 bar indicator holder to slap in an extra holder.

Made a handy "oh crap I don't want to pay LMS shipping for just one thing" for my "oh no you need the 250-007T parting tool holder" order. Anyone need a 250-007 non T holder?
 
Crap indicator is all i got right now (HF).

Yeah, they are crap. But very usable crap. I've got two of them that work the same, so I assume it's how they're made. You can work with them. The problem is the long travel. As the work slides under the tip, if it's too far out, it kind of wedges and gets sticky. If it's loaded up half way or more up the travel before you start measuring, it gets a lot better when the work is "sliding" under the tip. They're fine for "in line" movements, such as setting one on your carriage or cross slide where the tip is in line with the movement, then they work fine for the whole travel.
 
For centering work your indicator really doesn't need to be accurate at all. You just need it to not hang up so you can properly evaluate the high/low indication when you spin the chuck.

But I bet your indicator likely is pretty accurate, even if you bought it at HF.

One piece of advice, based on my own experience and lots of info here and elsewhere. Get yourself a second chuck wrench. It's really handy to use two when dialing in your work. It makes it a lot easier (and faster) to control the process. I made one but they aren't all that expensive if you don't want to do that. One for one jaw, the other for the opposite jaw. Once you get them all dialed in you can tighten the jaws by using both, so you don't mess up the alignment you worked so hard to get.
 
So I see a TON of places selling the chucks. Ebay. Amazon. LMS. Dozens of sellers at the first two. LMS seems to be one of the only places selling adapter plates. A few ebay sellers but they're several times the cost. Which is fine - I try to shop there when I can but his shipping adds up quick and I've recently bought several orders.

But what's the deal on the disparity - is it necessary? Do folks make their own? Normally LMS is rarely the best 'deal' but on this one they seem to be, which adds to the mystery.
try aliexpress?
 
Yeah, i ended up just spinning it and eyeballing it to grossly center it. Crap indicator is all i got right now (HF). I did buy a 3/8 bar indicator holder to slap in an extra holder.

Made a handy "oh crap I don't want to pay LMS shipping for just one thing" for my "oh no you need the 250-007T parting tool holder" order. Anyone need a 250-007 non T holder?
Try looking up Accusize on Amazon, they have indicators that are inexpensive and very good.
 
In full disclosure, I didn't have access to a mill at the time, and making a plinth was out of reach. Now I have a small mill, and I could make a plinth, but I haven't bothered, since the mini lathe works well enough once adjusted.
I made the plinth for my 7x14 before I had a mill, so a mill isn't a requirement IMO. I like the plinth a lot and even though I'd done a lot of work to 'tune up' the gibs, it made a big difference.
 
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