A Straddle Knurler for the Sherline Lathe

[Aukai]

I have not tried the behind centerline approach, I was kinda thinking you would move away from the knob, and get a hex. If you go too tight with the knurl on aluminum it will tear the diamond out by the root.....

 

[Grinderman]

Check out Joe's video, good stuff

 

[Grinderman]

I had some leftover nickel acetate so I decided to nickel plate all the components for the knurler and modify the tensioning knob with hex or knurled options to tighten. This was a fun project and works so much better than the bump knurler that came with the tool post.

 

[DavidR8]

I had some leftover nickel acetate so I decided to nickel plate all the components for the knurler and modify the tensioning knob with hex or knurled options to tighten. This was a fun project and works so much better than the bump knurler that came with the tool post.

That looks fantastic!

 

[Aukai]

That is spiffy looking

 

[blu73]

Mikey,

First of all, I've got to confess that I didn't read all eight pages of posts that your original one generated on this subject. I've been thinking of building a knurling tool of this type for a few years. I've looked at the one Sherline offers and I've collected a few articles from the internet that deal with this type tool. Yours makes the most sense to me when you talk about rigidity and mounting it directly to the cross slide.

I do have one question, and it looks like you have the experience to provide a good answer. Not looking to start an argument here. Just curious to see what your have learned about this machining technique. What is the best way to generate a quality knurl? Do you position the wheels where knurl is started, then tighten them against the stock until the finish you want is showing, or do you touch off, move away from the part, adjust for depth, then feed in from the end?

You mentioned that you had asked the vendor to bevel the edges of your knurls and I'm trying to figure out why. Did you need them beveled for lead-in so they could be fed onto the stock from the end, or did you want them that way for a certain look at the edges of the finished knurl?

I repeat, I didn't read all the postings here, and maybe that information is included. Apologies if I'm asking you to repeat yourself.

Russ

 

[mikey]

Mikey,

First of all, I've got to confess that I didn't read all eight pages of posts that your original one generated on this subject. I've been thinking of building a knurling tool of this type for a few years. I've looked at the one Sherline offers and I've collected a few articles from the internet that deal with this type tool. Yours makes the most sense to me when you talk about rigidity and mounting it directly to the cross slide.

I do have one question, and it looks like you have the experience to provide a good answer. Not looking to start an argument here. Just curious to see what your have learned about this machining technique. What is the best way to generate a quality knurl? Do you position the wheels where knurl is started, then tighten them against the stock until the finish you want is showing, or do you touch off, move away from the part, adjust for depth, then feed in from the end?

You mentioned that you had asked the vendor to bevel the edges of your knurls and I'm trying to figure out why. Did you need them beveled for lead-in so they could be fed onto the stock from the end, or did you want them that way for a certain look at the edges of the finished knurl?

I repeat, I didn't read all the postings here, and maybe that information is included. Apologies if I'm asking you to repeat yourself.

Russ

Morning, Russ.

I move half the wheel over the edge of the work, just past the starting bevel, and tighten until I get the depth of impression I want. Then I move the wheels off the work and make sure I'm ready to go - lube, carriage stop if needed, etc. Then I make the pass. The depth of pattern is important for knurl life and I cannot get an accurate depth by moving off and guesstimating the setting.

A bevel or convex knurl is best for axial running, when you have to knurl past just the width of the knurl. The bevel reduces the axial forces required to move the knurl down the work. I've knurled with wheels with bevels and a square shoulder and I can feel the lower feed forces needed with the beveled wheels so that's what I choose to use.

 

[mickri]

Got my knurler done except for the knurls. Misread the description on the knurls. I thought that they were 1/4" wide when the hole was 1/4" and missed that the knurls were 3/8" wide. That only leaves 1/6" or a little less on each side of the knurl. Haven't decided how I will fix that. Thinking about ways to add some thickness. Still have some rough edges that I need to deburr. Otherwise I think that it came out ok.

 

[Brento]

@mikey i remember reading that you set up a dremel with a x and y table can we see pictures of that? I just cant afford a surface grinder and i think that would do the trick for tiny little things. Obviously nothing critical. I always wanted to take one of those x and y tables and slap a mag chuck on it and come up with some sort of spindle with a z movement.

 

[mickri]

Brento you must have me confused with someone else. I have not done that. I do have an X/Y table that C-Bag gifted me that I have on one of my drill presses. But have not used a dremel with the X/Y table.