A THIRD GoldWing!

I tend to use my HF mini lathe and mini mill just as another piwer tool like the drill press, bench grinder, battery drill etc. All require proper setup, safety, and use. Having "machine" tools just give me a lot more options. As the previous poster noted, most bike shops only use available parts or "send it out". They don't have training, time, or access to lathes and mills. Even tasks that were once done in-house like rotor turning, valve grinding, etc. are sent out our just new parts used.
 
I look at my mini-lathe and mill like any other power tool. They all require proper training, tools, setup, safety, and operation. Having them can make things easier (seldom faster as I end up making custom instead of buying pre-made). For my TFI setup, I needed heat sinks. Could have ordered fron several sources, but had aluminum bracket to cut up and shower door rail that combined to make a great pair of sinks and radiators.

Shops just want to save time. Anything that can't be replaced is farmed out or refused. Shops don't even have valve grinders anymore (of course, so few can be ground these days). There are fewer and fewer automotive machine shops, too. If the one near me closes, I may just drive ~100 miles to my home town where the farming community and recreational boating keep a shop in business.
 
Retimed (static) the '79 earlier this week and fired it up yesterday when I backed it out to shuffle bikes around. Fired up first touch of the button and idled up as soon as all float bowls filled. I turned the fuel petcock off and let it idle until the bowls were empty and it died from no fuel. Idled great (reved a few times and sounded great then, too). This might be final for storage, just have to see how weather goes. If so, I'll drain the bowls completely and top off the tank with Stabil treated real gas (I only use real gas in all our carbed engines).

Calculated that I probably put ~$75 into the TFI experiment as the modules and connectors were purchased online new and the 6 pin connectors had to be purchased (and then replaced in my stock). Heat sinks were from the scrap aluminum bin, though.
 
Right now its a matter of rounding up and cleaning parts. Its based on the Kawasaki 1000 engine but with a big bore kit stretching it to 1428. I raced one like it back in the mid 80's and yes when i get some parts together i will post pics.
I have one bored to 1260 and supercharged but haven't used it for 20 years, boy did that time go quick.
Nick
 
Took it for a ~120 mile ride Saturday. Running very lean. After checking the plugs, turned #1,2, 4 pilot screw out 1/2 turn and #3 a full turn. Need to make bushings for the clutch lever for both the '79 and '78, plus bore out the levers and press them in.
 
Last edited:
Update: finally disconnected the TFI setup and went to straight points ignition. Rewuired swapping one 6 pin connector and plugging in the condensers. Took more time to open the side covers than do the change-over. I'm pretty sure that I damaged the TFI modules by running with a failing regulator (GL1000s had separate rectifier/regulator) which let voltage go over 17 volts for the first few miles of a ride. I replaced the stovk setup with and aftermarket reg/rect cobo unit and now the voltage stays no higher than 14.8 - I'm sure this is easier on the battery too! Have put a couple hundred miles on her since, and she idles, accelerates, cruises, and decelerates buch nicer now. Very smooth. I'll be watching for a couple junk yard grey remote mount, push-start OEM Ford modules now, as I really want yo reduce point wear. Nice to verify that all I need is a coin (to remove the side cover over the points connection) to swap to standard points ignition in case of a module failure.

This bike is now my warm weather daily driver. So much better in the heat than the fully-faired '06 GL1800.
 
Sad to say that in May of this year (2021) I sold her and the '06 GL1800 to make room for a new Spyder RTL. Age and gravel parking lots just getting too treacherous to navigate on the 1800 two-up, and room needed in the garage as the Spyder takes up space for two bikes.
 
The tin top drivers are having less and less care for anything that is on the same road as they. We purchased a mid 30s car last year for a long term ride to replace our bike as we get tired of being pushed around.
Pierre
 
The winter 19-20 project is now in the garage. 1979 GL1000 that had gone through a period with full Vetters and then a poor rendition of a cafe with 7/8" pipe clamped in each handle bar clamp. A chunk of foam (no seat pan) for a seat. Lucked out and gathered most of the missing parts pretty quick. This is my first project bike that actually ran (although very poorly and pouring fuel out of the carbs) when I got it home. It does have ~2 year-old tires and a licely coated tank. All plastic is there although one side cover is broken (I have spares). Missing a muffler, but I have a fairly good '78-'79 left from the Hunley build.

Right now, the carbs are apart for thorough cleaning/rebuild along with the rear brake system. After they are back I will do the front brakes (at a minimum swap the calipers back to the correct sides) and front forks.

Oh yes, I've already changed the belts - before it was ever rolled over!
29468eb87aee21d202a4b27c6fe225b9.jpg

5a65758af99f0a9ae9971012de18e996.jpg

I lost mine in a flood....... still have the OEM repair manual... its yours if ya need it . At one time I had 2 GL 1100.
GL parts are cheap. pain to work on ..
1682112746113.png
 
Couldn't help myself - had to dig back in time to when another couple and we rode out to Sturgis on our Goldwings. Quite the first time journey for us on a bike, which led to two other FLHTCU's and multiple trips out west from Wisconsin and 25 plus years of riding. Good old days!!

87GWOWEST_0006A.jpg

87GW_MOM_DAD.jpg
 
Back
Top