Another 10" Logan Project + A Question

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
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I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
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Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
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Looking good! I see you have a Jacobs headstock chuck. I had one of those for the 6" Atlas lathe that I used to own. It was a very handy piece of tooling.
 
Thanks T.J. I agree on the chuck. The bore on this one is almost the same as my spindle bore, so I'll be able to run
stock up to 3/4" all the way through. This lathe actually came with one in a smaller size, but it's got a broken
sleeve that has to be replaced, so it needs a rebuild before it can be used. Between the two of them I'll have a
useful range of sizes.
 
Funny coincidence: I just came across one on eBay for a decent price and snatched it up. It's a Jacobs 58B with a 1/8-5/8" capacity. I think that's the smaller of the two that Jacobs made for the 1-1/2"-8 tpi spindle.
 
You're right, it is the smaller chuck. The 59B, which is what I bought has a range of 3/16 to 3/4.

As you know the 56B in 1-10 thread was what the Atlas used. The old Jacobs catalog
also lists a 55B in a 1-8 thread.
 
Chuck K said:
It's pretty simple to change the bushings.... and the shaft for that matter. I've changed them on a few logans. It makes the machine run a little smoother. That shaft seems to get neglected on a lot of machines. It only takes a second to shoot a little oil in the cups.
Click to expand...

CluelessNewB said:
The bushings on my 820 were much worse than yours! I replaced both the shaft and the bushings. I believe the total cost for all 4 bushings was less that $10 from McMaster-Carr.
Click to expand...

S0, when you guys changed the shafts, how hard was it to get the pulley off. I took out the set screws and it resisted tapping it out. Will I need to press it off, or can I just heat the pulley and
tap it out?
 
Before you do any pressing or tapping make sure there isn't a second set screw under the first. Mine had stacked set screws!
 
Thanks for the tip. I checked. Single set screws on mine.

How did you get your shaft off?
 
I cleaned up the shaft aggressively to remove burrs and crud with emery cloth and a file and sprayed with Kroil and used a homemade puller made with wood and threaded rod. The large pulley came off real easy, the cone pulley wasn't all that bad once it started to move. I knew I would be replacing the shaft so my big concern was not damaging the pulleys. Shafts are cheap, pulleys not so much.
 
Those can be tough some times. Just take care not to damage the pulley. I have used a press, pullers....whatever works.
 
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