Another 10" Logan Project + A Question

[Nogoingback]

OK, thank you Chuck and Clueless. I'll start with a good soaking in Kroil, and figure out what to do after that.

 

[Nogoingback]

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.



I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.



Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544

 

[TomKro]

Those bushings look good. I'll have to remember to try the chamfer trick next time I try pressing bushings in. Probably didn't help that my arbor press needed a more rigid stand. Have to bolt mine down to a better bench - doesn't do much good right now on the basement floor.

Nice idea using a drill chuck on the spindle. I haven't seen any on e-bay with 1-1/2 inch adapters to mate directly with the spindle, and I didn't realize they're set up with a thru hole. Saw a few on e-bay with a 3MT mount, but a thru hole would be a lot better. Is there a special name for that type of adapter?

 

[Nogoingback]

A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.



I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.



Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
View attachment 253544

 

[RonRock]

SPINDLE ASSEMBLY



I looked online and never found a wrench in inches that would fit, but as it turns out a 40-42mm metric wrench (DIN 1810) works perfectly. I found
it online with no problem for about 13 bucks.

View attachment 224304

Can you tell me where to get that spanner?

I'm doing my 1937 right now and it looks like I need several spanners. Anybody know how many and what sizes I need? I'm going through the whole machine, Headstock, QCGB, Tailstock, etc.

 

[Nogoingback]

I bought the tool online from J.W. Winco, Inc. Description was an A54932 DIN 1810-40-42-B Hook Wrench. Price was $12.14.

So far, that's the only special tool I've used that I can think of. Everything else that I've used has been normal shop tools. What other tools are you thinking of?

 

[wa5cab]

Actually, Jacobs made five of what they called "Headstock Chucks". The 58B and 59B are both larger sized chucks with 1-1/2"-8 threads. The 58B has a clamping range of 1/8" to 5/8" and the 59B 3/16" to 3/4". The smaller size chucks are the 55B with 1"-8 threads and the 56B with 1"-10. They both have a clamping range of 1/16" to 17/32". The fifth one is the 34VR with a clamping range of 3/16" to 9/16", The mounting method is simply shown as "Special". I don't know what it was for. All of these chucks have a through hole slightly larger in diameter than their maximum clamping size.

 

[RonRock]

I bought the tool online from J.W. Winco, Inc. Description was an A54932 DIN 1810-40-42-B Hook Wrench. Price was $12.14.

So far, that's the only special tool I've used that I can think of. Everything else that I've used has been normal shop tools. What other tools are you thinking of?

Thank you. I'll order one.

I "should" have and wish I would have had and used a spanner for the nut on the end of the Tailstock. I didn't have one so used a pin in the hole and tapped it with a hammer. Didn't take much to break it loose, but hogged out the hole in the process.

I haven't started disassembly of my Headstock or Center Carriage yet. Not sure what I will need. But I'd rather be prepared than faced with not having the right tool for the job.


Sorry about that last post. Getting used to the workings of this forum. Glad you took the time to look and reply.

Appreciate the help.

 

[Nogoingback]

No problem at all. One of the nicer aspects of this forum is that people help each other out.

Your tailstock must be different than mine: the nut on mine is large and hex shaped. I've got my complete carriage assembly in pieces
right now: the only part that needed an unusual tool is the LA-254 bushing on the compound. It also was drilled for a pin wrench.
I just grabbed it in my bench vice (with soft jaws that didn't mar the OD), and popped it loose. Other than that, everything came apart
with the usual tools.

If you decide to change headstock bearings and have any questions, be sure to ask and I"ll try and help. You can PM me if you want to.
There are also instructions published by Scott Logan on how to adjust the back gears: I don't know if they're downloaded anywhere on
this site, but they are available and very useful when you install the back gear shaft into the headstock.

 

[RonRock]

Here is my Tailstock.