Atlas 7B Disassembly and Teardown! Pic Heavy!

The wiring is on page one of the owners manual, if this isn't enough info, I can take a picture of the diagram that is on the motor.
 
The wiring is on page one of the owners manual, if this isn't enough info, I can take a picture of the diagram that is on the motor.
T hank's I totaly forgot about the manual but just to be on the safe side if you don't mind could you post a pitcher I'm not that good with electrical
 
Are either of you using the steel spiral conduit to secure your wiring inside of the main housing to the switch? I am trying to find some but I am unsure if I need conduit with the wire already inside of it or if I can buy just the conduit and run my own wire through it?
The wiring is on page one of the owners manual, if this isn't enough info, I can take a picture of the diagram that is on the motor.
T hank's I totaly forgot about the manual but just to be on the safe side if you don't mind could you post a pitcher I'm not that good with electrical
 
Are either of you using the steel spiral conduit to secure your wiring inside of the main housing to the switch? I am trying to find some but I am unsure if I need conduit with the wire already inside of it or if I can buy just the conduit and run my own wire through it?
Hey,I'm using the spiral conduit that was already on the shaper but I would think you could push wire through the conduit.
 
That's the thing, I have the original conduit but the conduit was made to tightly fit the wiring and of course the wiring is rotten. I pulled the wire out but obviously now I cant fit the same gauge wire back through it. I guess I will have to see if I can buy it this way. Last question, is there a specific gauge wire that should be used from the outlet to the motor and can I use a smaller gauge wire to the switch? This would solve the issue of fitting wire in the conduit. The motor appears to be a typical 1/2 HP.
Hey,I'm using the spiral conduit that was already on the shaper but I would think you could push wire through the conduit.
 
You may be able to use something like this:

032886895814.jpg



Its just a flexible conduit from Lowes/Home Depot. You can get it by the foot but you'll have to figure out what fittings to use for the ends.

Or maybe this:

032886895692.jpg


Also from Lowes/Home Depot, it's a whip used for hooking up large appliances like A/C compressors and the like. It's 6' long but you could shorten it.

 
Thanks for posting this. Great ideas. Ill have to make a run to a HD or Lowes and see what they got.
You may be able to use something like this:

032886895814.jpg



Its just a flexible conduit from Lowes/Home Depot. You can get it by the foot but you'll have to figure out what fittings to use for the ends.

Or maybe this:

032886895692.jpg


Also from Lowes/Home Depot, it's a whip used for hooking up large appliances like A/C compressors and the like. It's 6' long but you could shorten it.

 
Oof. I finally got around to welding my shaper part.

It's been a few weeks in limbo as my water cooled torch crapped out. It sprung a bad leak and melted down completely so I had to replace all the hoses and find a new tig cooler solution. Now I'm up and running again!

I welded the machined ring onto the sheet metal part. I chose to stitch it rather than continuous to minimize warpage.

EM520669.JPG


EM520670.JPG



I think that amount of weld will be adequate, given the fairly low stress on the part.

Now I have to chuck it back up in the lathe and true up the ID to the perfect slip fit to the shaper's mating part. This will be a few machining firsts for me. I've never turned an eccentric part like this, nor have I ever indicated an ID to set a part in the chuck. I also have to make certain the part is square in the chuck so the ID is perpendicular to the rest of the part. Probably it will take an hour to set up and 2 minutes to cut! Should be interesting.
 
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