Atlas/Craftsman 12x36" lathe...questions

[jwmay]

I hate to muddy the waters, but there are several considerations to account for when repowering with a dc motor. If you can find a decent AC motor that’s affordable, I’d just do that. I think for those who have done it successfully, some luck and research was involved. But you’ll just as easily spend a hundred bucks on two treadmills, both with incompatible, underpowered motors and controllers....and still be no further ahead. Ask me how I know.

 

[Jason280]

But you’ll just as easily spend a hundred bucks on two treadmills, both with incompatible, underpowered motors and controllers....and still be no further ahead. Ask me how I know

Yeah, that's why I'll likely end up sticking with an AC motor.

 

[Jason280]

Went ahead and pulled the lead screw with the QCGB and apron...what's the easiest way to get the apron off?

 

[Jason280]

SUCCESS!!

Here is the reason the lead screw wasn't sliding out...

I was able to get everything cleaned up, gears looked pretty good.

 

[wa5cab]

When cleaned up, all of the parts do seem to look OK, There should be some shims between the output gear on the output shaft and the inner end of the GB casting. Those are to align the output gear with the gear that drives it. Then absent any information to the contrary, I would slide a 0.005" to 0.008" feeler gauge between the outside end of the casting and the collar, hold everything snugly together, and tighten the grub or set screw in the collar. Then remove the feeler gauge and check that the output shaft turns freely. As you can now see, the lead screw should be free to slide in the bore of the output shaft, with the lead screw end float controlled by the bearing assembly at the tailstock end of the bed.

 

[Jason280]

I'm assuming you mean the area I marked below with the red line?

I was curious about the amount of play there, but there were no shims in place when I disassembled it.

 

[markba633csi]

Treadmill motors are virtually all dc brush type and can easily be controlled either with the original treadmill electronics or a substitute controller with armature feedback such as KB electronics. Even a simple light dimmer plus bridge rectifier circuit will work for just a few dollars, but won't have the best speed regulation under load.
Mark

 

[Jason280]

I gave up on the treadmill motor, and went ahead and bought a new 1/2 HP motor from Harbor Freight....total was right at $100. Tractor Supply carried a similar motor, but would have been closer to $270...couldn't really justify to extra expense. Granted, who knows how long the HF motor will last, but it looks to be well built.

 

[Jason280]

Any reason not to go ahead and wire in a reversible drum switch? Generic drum style switches are available on eBay for under $10 delivered, and considering I now have a reversible electric motor, seems like a no brainer...

Thoughts?

Drum Switch Forward/Off/Reverse Motor Control Rain-Proof Reversing 60A | eBay

Wash-down Safe and Rain Proof. Auto Door Lock. 3 Positions: Forward, Stop, Reverse. Switch Parts & Accessory. Switch Action: Maintained (Stay Switched). Heat Shrink. Casing: Impact and Corrosion Resistant Plastic.

www.ebay.com

 

[jwmay]

I assume the men that built these originally thought it was a good idea. People often point out the risk of accidentally unscrewing the chuck from the spindle by running in reverse. But it must not be a super easy thing to do. Otherwise I’d expect they wouldn’t have offered it.