Atlas/Craftsman 12x36" lathe...questions

I would keep the motor switch that's mounted on the headstock and use it to start and stop the motor. Mount the drum switch somewhere behind the lathe, out of reach of kids and knob twiddlers. I have never heard of a case where a properly seated chuck came loose just from starting the motor in reverse. However, do not do any turning, threading or facing in reverse. But grinding in reverse is normal and OK. You don't want the grinding wheel throwing the spark stream up in front of you. And you don't want the spindle running in forward with the stream directed downwards because that subtracts the wheel speed from the spindle speed and reduces the relative velocity of the wheel and workpiece.
 
Wa5cab, what was your opinion/take on the shims? Is my illustration above correct?
 
I'll check my motors and see what I presently have .
 
Jason,

If you mean is the red line in the photograph showing where the missing shim should be, yes. My take is that it needs to be in there. The part number is 9-53. You can tell that it isn't in there because the teeth on the output gear don't line up with the teeth of the gear driving it. The substitute does not have to be a single piece.

Also, you can now see how with the collar not properly adjusted, it is probably a good thing that the lead screw was stuck in the hollow shaft. You can imagine what would have happened if the output gear were meshed with both gears and you then started the motor with gearbox tumbler engaged. It would ruin all three gears, and/or crack the gearbox casting.

Call Clausing first and see whether or not they have one on hand. If so, buy it, and when it arrives mic the thickness and post it here. If not, ask them to send you a scan of the parts drawing, from which you will have the dimensions with which to find a substitute. Forward the drawing to me if you get it and I'll clean it up and put it into Downloads for the next guy.
 
Just got off the phone with Clausing, it's surprising how many parts they have available! They have the shims, except they are listed as washers...I picked up a couple, along with a few other items, so hopefully they will be correct.
 
OK. Sounds good. When you post the shim (washer) thickness, also post OF and ID so we'll have it should Clausing stop carrying them.
 
Haven't updated this thread in a while, as I haven't been able to do much with the lathe. The shims came in, but they look a lot thinner than what I need....may end up having to machine my own. I did finally get a replacement motor mounted, and the lathe is again under power. Now, its just a matter of finishing up a few other projects and get focused back on the Craftsman!
 
Here was the previous *ahem* 1hp motor, compared with the 1/2 HP I picked up...
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I meant to write yesterday that there are several ways to rate the horse power of an electric motor. AFAIK, US practice has for decades been to use the (usually) measured mechanical power out. Which is done on a dynamometer with the motor loaded to its rated Full Load Amperes (FLA). At least the cheaper Chinese way can be to use the electrical power in and assume 100% efficiency. The typical single phase AC motor usually has an efficiency of 50 to 75%. But they can call the motor whatever they please. Which is apparently what happened here. 1 HP is 746 Watts. The input power in Watts is equal to the product of the RMS line voltage times the rated FLA.
 
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