Atlas Refurb and Tooling

Yep. That was a few years ago. I retired in '96. As far as what color to paint your lathe, use whatever floats your boat, and I'll try to stifle my comments. :jester:

It is a simple fact that aerosol spray paint doesn't hold up as well as things like two-part epoxy and similar. But I have to admit that painting is close to root canals on my list of things I don't like to do. So I either use rattle cans or pay someone else to do it. A guy over on another forum claims that roller applied and then brushed out epoxy works even better than sprayed epoxy. But I've not tried it. Of the rattle can paint brands, I've always preferred Rustoleum. But I imagine Krylon and a few others are probably just as good. Or bad, depending upon your point of view.

Robert D.
 
I usually get good results with the rattle cans of Rustoleum. Better yet if I give it time to cure and don't get impatient and mung up the fresh paint.


Jamie
 
I disassembled my electric drive motor to my 6" Atlas, cleaned and painted it a gray using a rattle can. I went online to investigate baking to cure. I could not find specific information on the brand I used so I slid it into the oven in my garage at 250 degrees F. for over 30 minutes. I did this over 3 years ago and the motor seems to clean easily by wiping and it is not stained from cutting oils and lubricants. I have since gotten into powder paints, the reason for an electric kitchen oven is in my garage. Powder paint is the way to go for durability. Whether rattle can, spray gun, or powder paint, preparation and curing are important for a lasting finish.
On another note, Tractor Supply sells cans of paint in various sizes and colors, along with a hardener to produce a more durable finish. Clean your spray gun immediately or the paint with hardener could cause serious issues.
 
I have wanted a powder coating rig forever!! I just need a big enough space for an oven. i see them free for the taking on the side of the road all the time.


Jamie
 
What brand of powder coating equip do you prefer. Are you using the eastwood stuff. If not do you have any experience with their products?


Jamie
 
Now that Christmas has passed I have gotten serious about putting my shop back together and improving my overall organization.

I spent a couple hours last night stripping some parts on the Atlas. I have been using Captain John's Boat Bright Soy Stripper. This stuff is amazing, and is the only stripper I will use. http://www.boatbrite.com/boat-brite-products/boat-brite-soy-stripper/45/58 I found this product when we were restoring a 30 foot sail boat that my parents own. We were stripping multiple layers of marine varnish from the teak and it was amazing to use. Has a very slight odor but nothing that carries and not volatile or flammable. I wear gloves to keep the softened paint off my hands, but have no issue getting this stuff on my fingers when repositioning parts. It is the consistency of warm honey. It stays wet for a long time and digs through multiple layers of paint.

The original Atlas paint is removed with one application to the bare metal. I will post pics tonight. I scrape off the paint with a west system plastic mixing stick. Rinse the part under warm water and give a scrub with a scotch brite and I am left with the bare casting.

Last night I stripped the base/legs. I had 3 coats of etching primer and a heavy! Coat of Hammerite inside and out. I also stripped the tailstock, and tailstock base, gear guard, compound upper and lower swivel, tool post slide

Ultrasonically cleaned the Spindle pulley and gear, back gear assembly, tumbler assembly, and some of the various hardware.

I am going to strip the headstock paint on the outside. Probably won't strip the paint on the bed because it is in good shape, I will however degrease it thoroughly before I decide. Then the carriage assembly and all will be done.

I will continue to use a self etch spray primer and I'm going to switch gears to rattle can rust o leum probably in Machinery gray.


Jamie
 
Jamie,
Sorry for the late reply, blame it on Christmas.
I have the single voltage gun from Eastwood. For the money, it is very good equipment. It works. After I purchased it, they came out with the dual voltage gun. I strongly suggest the dual voltage if you go for their gun. The higher voltage helps you to overcome a Faraday Cage effect. I said helps - not all the time. I encountered the cage effect painting wing spar attachments for an Aeronca. I had to heat the part to coat between the steel halves (think tall U-channel). Read everything you can get your hands on about the process. Castings can be a pain due to oil absorption. Castings have to be cleaned and baked at 500 deg F. for an hour, then cleaned again. Still no guarantees that more oil will not come out and ruin your nice paint job during the 'bake to cure' process. I really enjoy powder coating. When all goes well, it is faster than painting, no volatiles, sweep up the over spray, the magnitude of colors and effects including glow in the dark, and it is so durable. You can purchase expensive equipment but, if you are not doing it for pay, save your money. You will have more problems with oil, hanging the part, Faraday Cage effect, etc, than you will from an inexpensive powder coat gun. Eastwood is not a discount house so search around for deals on powder paint, even Ebay. I use Ted's, All Powders, Powder by the Pound, Prismatic, Ebay, and anyone with a deal for the color I need. I have used HF powders, very inexpensive and they seem to work OK. They also sell a gun but, my experience with replacement parts from HF has been quite frustrating. BTW, choose the largest oven you can get, they're never large enough as you will find out.
Go for it.
Paul
 
I am having no luck with the search function. Can anyone tell me what the size of the 2 belts are. I believe that I found somewhere that the jackshaft to the spindle was a 3L 370 but for the life of me I can't find it. I suppose I could do the old wrap a piece of string around the pulleys and buy the closest size but I would rather have the exact lengths.
 
Just go to a Harbor Freight and pick up some Link Belts and make your own. They can be made to fit any length. Also run quieter than normal belts.

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roadie33 said:
Just go to a Harbor Freight and pick up some Link Belts and make your own. They can be made to fit any length. Also run quieter than normal belts.

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do they come in the 3/8" 3L width. The only ones I saw on their web site were 1/2"

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