Atlas Refurb and Tooling

[Jamiethesquid]

Jamie

 

[itsme_Bernie]

I remember re-curbing this exact machine years ago.
Looking great!

Bernie

 

[Jamiethesquid]

Can't wait to get it all done. Then in the Spring we will be tearing into the 1940 Leblond Regal. I am going to just do a strip and clean on that machine so I can start making some chips.

 

[Jamiethesquid]

So, I see on other resto threads that some people take a little body filler or glazing putty and fill in the rough spots of the sand casting before painting. The obsessive compulsive in me says that this is something I should do. I know it is not necessary. But what the heck. I already have the glazing putty and some 3M plastic metal. I will put this on after the etching prime and before the paint.

 

[Round in circles]

It's looking good .
I see there is no " engineers adjustment marks :roflmao:to most of the slots in the screw heads ... that bodes well for a machine that will run true when reassembled correctly .

 

[Jamiethesquid]

It looks like the machine has very very little use.


Jamie

 

[Jamiethesquid]

Did a little more disassembly tonight. Hope to get the remaining parts degreased and stripped of paint. Temp is still below zero so I am not able to prime and paint but I have to do something.


Jamie

 

[Jamiethesquid]

I was able to remove the carriage feed easy enough. But the half nut lever seems to be swaged on the shaft. Oh well it might just stay in place. However the cross slide screw I would like to remove but it is being stubborn. The slotted nut on the end of the handle, any suggestions on removing that. I was trying a screwdriver to no avail. Maybe grinding a blade in the end of a socket?


Jamie

 

[wa5cab]

Jamie,

For recessed slotted nuts, I always first look around at tool suppliers (both mechanical and electronic) to see whether anyone makes either a square drive or nut driver style tool of the correct size. If I find nothing Or if I need it NOW) , then I usually sacrifice a deep pattern 12-point square drive socket (more often than not a 1/4" drive) and mill the blades on the end of it. I've done several sizes now so seldom encounter a size that I don't already have. The reason that I always use a deep pattern socket is that some of the cases where I encounter the slotted nuts, there is a shaft of some sort sticking out from them. Sockets, although hardened, aren't that hard. And I've not encountered one that didn't machine OK. The problem with grinding in this instance is first accuracy and second getting a square corner. Ideally you want the blade length about .005" shorter than the slot depth. So to fit properly with no wobble, you can't have much of a radius between the blades and the end of the cut back socket. Also, cut the blades long and then cut off to desired length. The ends of sockets are rounded off, which is something that you do not want on a screwdriver tip.

Robert D.

 

[Jamiethesquid]

Thanks Robert. As I currently don't have a mill I will be doing this "old school" with a grinder a file and some sweat. I'm not afraid though.


Jamie