Beauty in The Beast: Webb 5BVK Barn Find/Conversion

@Charlieman22

I couldn't find a posted link to the joystick you're using.
Please post a link.
TIA
 
Jim - Below your written out schematic.
Question:
There are 3 wires coming off the E stop. I have direction below for the green and blue wires on the E stop. Is the white unused?

On the VFD, jump +24V to PW

Connect COM to 2 on the E-stop switch (GREEN)
Connect 1 on the E-stop switch to 3 and 4 on the bottom of the For/Rev switch (BLUE)
Connect 3 from the top of the For/Rev switch to S1 on the VFD
Connect 4 from the top of the For/Rev switch to S2 on the VFD

Connect one side of the speed control pot to +10V on the VFD
Connect the other side of the speed control pot to GND on the VFD, this the analog GND, not earth ground (PE)
Connect the center terminal on the speed control pot to AI1 on the VFD
Make sure to set jumper J16 to V
If the speed control is backwards, then swap the +10V and GND wires.

Set P5.01 = 1, S1 = Run Forward
Set P5.02 = 2, S2 = Run Reverse

See P5.10, Terminal Control Mode
Set P5.10 = 0

Run Command Source
Set P0.01 = 1, Terminal

Frequency Command Source
Set P0.07 = 1, AI1


Link to joystick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QLSJZL3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Hahaha.
exactly.
Our little project is coming along pretty well.
And we haven't even added the foot pedal yet.
(kidding. Kidding!)

DRO for X & Y look executable.
Question on the Z though.
I seem to have 3 limit switches on the Z.
One is dead smack in the way of executing as you did.
Frankly not sure why there would be a need for it.
One on the top left would be in the way of putting the DRO there.
I'm thinking the Quill DRO will be pretty crucial given that I have no tactile feel with my system.IMG_2657.JPG
 
I think you can safely remove the left switch, it appears to be the home switch, not needed.

EDIT: Don't remove the wires for that switch, we may use them later.

Now we can open up the can of worms discussion about why home switches are or are not needed on a knee mill. :rolleyes: (They are not, unless you have a automatic tool changer)
 
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EDIT: Don't remove the wires for that switch, we may use them later.

Now we can open up the can of worms discussion about why home switches are or are not needed on a knee mill. :rolleyes: (They are not, unless you have a automatic tool changer)
Wait - Im not going to have an automatic tool changer?
How are these tools going to get themselves changed ?!

Currently I have the worlds largest 220 fused disconnect box on side of this mill.
Let's say I would like to remove the boxes as part of my DRO install - and while I sort out the CNC plan.
This would also put me in position to consider any additional clean up and/or paint.

Besides the challenge of removing what I am guessing is 300+ lbs of steel - can I get a recommendation or link on a slick all in one fused disconnect box I might be able to install on the wall or side of machine?
Not really sure what specs I am after.

Asking for a friend.
 
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