Becoming hobby machinist in the near future.

[Christianstark]

I should have taken more photos unpacking. There was damage done to the box on the top (the DRO) by a shipping strap friction for 3000 miles, but no damage to the contents. The stand had minor damage of the logo sticker (again from friction). So far everything else appears good. On part of the lower pallet had a broken crossbeam which surprized me because it was on the lighter side. That could have been cause by loading for all I know, but since it is on a double palette I am pretty sure the machine did not even notice.
So in other words it made the trip in fantastic condition.

Let me know how the break on period goes, and what you order in terms of a belt. I’d like to have a belt on hand when mine arrives to use when the delivery belt needs replacing.


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[Rodneyk]

Let me know how the break on period goes, and what you order in terms of a belt. I’d like to have a belt on hand when mine arrives to use when the delivery belt needs replacing.


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QMT pulled the belts off the lathe prior to sending the lathe and put new ones to replace them on top of the lathe (apparently the factory belts were not correct. I can let you know what those are later as I had a busy evening putting the lathe up on the stand with a friend.

Here is my shaggy dog story of moving the lathe from the palette to the stand. Before starting I had assembled and leveled the table (which was probabaly pointless since this kind of got crazy... Huge amount of thinking and preparing before starting the process, but it did not go quite as planned.

The mounting went something crazy like this: Removing the bolts that held the lathe to the palette was tough, in hind sight you could just remove the nut and lift with the hoist, but I wanted to know how it was going to shift so I wanted to remove the bolts and they are hard to access. Luckily I am skinny and was able to get me arms under there. One bolt was snugged up to the center brace so I had to remove is with a standard wrench 1/4 at a time (a ratchet would not fit).

The hoist legs were too narrow to get around pallet, much worse than the PM833T situation where I was able to put the hoist on blocks and progressively remove the layers of palettes. After a lot of thinking I decided the use a jigsaw to cut the bottom palette in a way that allowed me to put the hoist legs under the machine and lift. After removing the palettes the next mess was a near disaster because we tried to rotate the lathe 180 on the hoist because it was delivered 180 degrees rotated from what I needed (cannot see lathe until you remove the crate at all, and the space was tight in the garage with an engine hoist. The result was the the lathe started to shift lower the headstock and nearly got out of control. It got so out of balance that some of the Gear stock out leaked out (it is in an open pan) which made thing worse. we quickly threw some 4x6 blocks under and set it down before thing got REALLY bad, talk about an adrenaline rush, and I was able to lower the lathe gently giving a little time for thought.

I removed chuck to lighten the headstock (duh I should have done that initially but somethings you just gotta learn the hard way). Now we were able to set the hoist up in front to the machine which would make it easier to get it on the stand (I thought). But the stand center only has a 2" gap so the hoist legs could not go under it. Solution was to put the stand up on 4x6 blocks, lower the lathe enough to get a bolt in place then lower it more to get the opposing bolt in place (lightly). Once they were all lined up we completely lowered the machine on to the stand. Then we were able to raise one side just enough to pull the 4x6 boards out and lower that side onto the feet. Then the other side was lowered with a lot of care and gently touches on the hoist. Oil cleanup on isle 2 please. I stopped at this point for the evening.

BTW I know there is still some areas with tourmaline visible in the picture. It was hard to see everything while it was on the palette, but the instructions said clean before doing anything so I did my best.

Before I can do anything more I will need to get my VFD set up because this is a 3Phase motor and the residence is not 3 phase.

 

[Rodneyk]

Congratulations! You are about 3 months ahead of me.
My 1340GT is scheduled to arrive in PA early to mid July.
I’m about 7-8 hours drive short of you from PA, how long did it take for the shipment to go from PA to WA?

Edit: I went back through this thread and found where you stated that it shipped on the 28th of April, so only 8 days or so.

Yes it took 7 days to get to Seattle and then the company scheduled the delivery for the next day for both the lathe and the mill.

 

[jwmelvin]

Here is my shaggy dog story of moving the lathe from the palette to the stand.

Congrats on getting it in place, despite the excitement; those moments can be a little scary.

 

[Flyinfool]

Looking good. Glad you made it with no real mishaps. If nothing is broken and no one got hurt it was a good day.

For my lathe it came with a lifting eye installed in the bed that was tall enough to be above the center of gravity. It was a simple matter of attaching the hook of my hoist to that eye and the lathe hung perfectly level as delivered. To put it on the stand I came in from the head stock end so that the hoist legs could go around the front and back of stand instead of straight on where the lift legs need to fit under the stand. It made for a no drama install / assembly.

 

[Aukai]

I forgot to add that the mounting bolts, and the feet of the head, and tail stock should have sealer added to keep liquids from getting into the cabinets. I spilled some oil from the catch pan, and found it went into the cabinet.

 

[Rodneyk]

Yesterday and today were spent building the VFD box and installing the Mark Jacobs control system.

This is what the lathe looked like before adding the new control panel for reference:

Here is the lathe with the Mark Jacobs custom control system:

Just a quick test of the control system (yes I had just refilled the oil and ha not put the cap back on yet, plus it was not a sterile environment (i.e. tools on top of the lathe, wish I could say that was for some reason like testing vibrations but it wasn't)
I still need to level the lathe and tighten and seal the bolts too.

 

[Rodneyk]

I was asked top post pictures of all the components of the Jacobs system what he included and what I had to supply. Since shipping all the components would add too much cost or components that depended on other things like the size of cables)

So here goes:

First here is the completed VFD BOX.
Mr. Jacobs provided the master switch, Breakers, Fuse Box, 24v power supply, mounting brackets, Cables to Motor, Cables to all other systems
I supplied the Cabinet, VFD, Breaking Resistor.

Control board:
Mr. Jacobs provided everything shown.

Front panel replacement:
Mr. Jacobs provided everything completely built and ready for install with all cable attached

Proximity Stop :
I purchased the endstop from QMT/PM and had them ship it to Mr. Jacobs. He provided and assembled everything else.

 

[Just for fun]

Thanks for sharing, it looks like with the help of Mr Jacobs going with VFD is pretty cut and dry!

 

[Rodneyk]

Thanks for sharing, it looks like with the help of Mr Jacobs going with VFD is pretty cut and dry!

Absolutely, He has pretty much documented his system on this forum in various places, but I would highly recommend using the system that he builds rather than trying to put it together by yourself. After installing the system I am certain that I could put one together, but before seeing his system I would have been lost. He has laid out the system quite elegantly and provides pretty awesome installation instructions (almost as many pages as the lathes operation manual) including everything you need to get the lathe running. Building the cabinet took me about 4-6 hours (I was going REALLY slow since this is my first time working with 220v circuits), and installing the system took me a couple hours including programming the VFD parameters (which is included in the PDF Mr. Jacobs provided).

The next project will be to install the DRO. DROPros has a set of youtube videos that is very detailed so I think that will go well.