[Source] Bridge rectifier?

C

Cadillac

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I need alittle guidance. My wife has a carpet beveling machine that has some electrical issues. The cord had a break in one of the wires right where the cinch held it on the electrical junction box of the machine.
I took the cover off to expose the wiring. When I went to pull the wire off the I think bridge rectifier the terminal sheared off in the crimp. I’ve never seen one like this shape and am having a hard time sourcing one not having much info to search. I did find some numbers on the side but can see the side has been cracked and numbers are missing.
The info I have is it’s a 120v machine. The tag on the motor says it’s a 120v DC. I didn’t see amperage or anything else on tag that seemed useful. Here are acouple picks of the bridge and the motor tag. What can I use and where to source. Any help would be much appreciated!0B13F33C-089F-4C8C-9915-780915554D98.jpeg3D035D21-2079-48D6-85DE-6F2B19364669.jpeg8CAC26DC-08FE-4122-88DF-3798E467F273.jpeg
 
Was another wire on your bridge? Most bridges have four terminals, but I suppose that the case could be used as the "-" terminal. How was the original attached to the substrate?
 
Thank u. But how do you spec these things out? Maybe that’s might question.
 
SLK001 said:
Was another wire on your bridge? Most bridges have four terminals, but I suppose that the case could be used as the "-" terminal. How was the original attached to the substrate?
Click to expand...
The original has a hole in the center and is round. Yes there was four terminals. The one missing is the one that sheared off. There is room in the box for a square one. I figured it had to do with the size of the motor it’s powering??
 
Cadillac said:
I figured it had to do with the size of the motor it’s powering??
Click to expand...
The original was possibly borderline as to capability and eventually "crossed" the border. Using the bigger square bridges should give you ample margin that the original did not have.

My guess is that the original was a 20 amp bridge, so using a 40 or 50 amp will work just fine.
 
Allied Electric, Digikey and Mouser are good starting points.

Www.digitkey.com
Www.mouser.com

Here’s your datasheet, one of the above suppliers should have something that fits, if not a direct replacement.

PK40F pdf, PK40F Description, PK40F Datasheet, PK40F view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

PK40F Datasheet, PK40F datasheets, PK40F pdf, PK40F integrated circuits : EDI - MINIBRIDGE 12 AMPERES-TAB TERMINALS SINGLE-PHASE, FULL-WAVE BRIDGES HEAT SINK AND CHASSIS MOUNTING ,alldatasheet, Datasheet, Datasheet search site for Electronic Components and Semiconductors, integrated circuits...
pdf1.alldatasheet.com
 
Bridge rectifiers are a standard semiconductor component, so you're really just after load ratings. Like @SLK001 said, nothing wrong with adding capacity. It'll cost more to ship a replacement in a padded envelope than it will cost you to buy it.
 
As others stated, nothing fancy, ac in bumpy DC out.

Bigger is better.

Look at fuse rating, double that.

A 10 Amp unit is not much more than 2.

Just need to make sure it fits the space ND the terminals fit the wire connectors.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
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