[Source] Bridge rectifier?

The PK40F bridge rectifier is rated at 12 amps. Any voltage above 120 VAC will do, as will any current rating above 12 amps (Although the 10 amps previously mentioned will likely work fine. 25 amps is a common rating for a square bridge.
 
Go for the overkill, with rectifiers it never hurts and costs you nothing more
Especially if the heat sink situation is marginal- for example mounted on a steel chassis, which doesn't dissipate heat as well as aluminum
 
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Just make sure you have room to mount it. Some rectifiers need a heat sink to handle full load. Study the spec's and as stated bigger is better.....Within reason.
 
Bridge rectifiers are rated for peak voltage. 120 vac rms has a peak voltage of 170 volts. Allow an extra 10% for line variation so 187volts peak. Chose a bridge with voltage rating of 200 volts or more.
 
DigiKey will ship a small item for $4.99. That is hard to beat. Mouser charges more for shipping and Allied has a minimum order of $50 if I recall correctly. I buy from DigiKey frequently. I don't trust electronic components from ebay, although something as simple as a bridge rectifier probably would be OK.
 
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Here's some data on the part: PK40F. As others have said. No problem using higher current and higher voltage part as long as it fits in the space.

 
The original part was probably just barely adequate and was cooking for a long time, making the case brittle. Put in a heftier part and it will
outlast you and your wife
 
Amazon!

Many options and good price.

Have used Amazon for many items, check and confirm the part numbers and free shipping .

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
I’ll often double the amp and/or voltage ratings when in doubt.

As an example,
I converted a tombstone welder to DC.
I used a 400 amp 200v rectifier.
Although the capacity of the welder will never come close to the rectifier capacity
 
Not being familiar with bridge number sequences, I use the 1N400x as an example. The higher the last number, the higher the voltage rating. I keep a couple dozen bridges around at any given time. For most applications, a 600 volt 40 amp bridge covers every thing I usually run into. 600 volts allow a diode to avoid any spuruous voltage spikes that may come from an inductive load such as a motor. I watch the various salvage vendors for cheap bridges at high voltage ratings and buy a half dozen or so at a time. It depends on shipping costs as a rule, I have seen (recently) such bridges go for less than a dollar each.

Usually, one corner is notched or keyed in some fashion. That will be the positive(+) DC. The diaonally opposite terminal will be the negative(-) DC terminal. The remaining two terminals are the AC lines. If the AC lines are swapped, there will be no effect. If the DC lines are swapped, at best the motor will run backwards. At worst, electronics may be melted.

For a domestic appliance, a heat sink won't be required for a high current bridge. That's why I use 40 amp bridges almost universally. . . In the photo, there is a metal bracket that will serve as a heat sink. I often mount to a metal chassis that serves as such, although it really isn't necessary. There are bridges available for higher current, but today use 5/16 or 3/8 Fast-ons. The 1/4 lugs usually will fail if they are pushed to the higher current. If you are really paranoid, the bridge should have a solid contact and even joint compound. But it really isn't necessary. The big issue is to keep it from flopping around.

Diodes have a curious property (Fermi level) that the voltage drop is consistant across their voltage range. For most silicon diodes in the commercial market, that drop is 0.7 volts. Which in a domestic (120 V) appliance will be irrelevent. So long as the voltage rating (PIV) and current are not exceded, they simply don't matter. For something like a flashlight bulb, the Fermi drop must be considered, but that is waayyy outside this discussion.

My most common source is:
where the identified item is about the maximun you will find. It is a little overkill, but hey. . . The 1/4 lugs won't stand up to a continuous 50 amps but will last almost forever at 25 amps. You will clear a breaker at 20 amps so is not an issue. Their shipping is a little high so I usually opt for a bulk buy.

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