Can anyone help with information on this tool?

atunguyd said:
Thanks Bi11 but there is a third type of knurling tool and that is what I have here. A "cut knurling" tool that apparently cuts rather than deforms. It is supposed u to require less pressure and also doesn't increase the diameter.

Cut Knurler

gadgetbuilder.com

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Rats, Another project for the to do list........
 
Bi11Hudson said:
Although I find that claim plausable, to an extent, there is a point that doesn't make sense. I don't have the proper physics background to express my point, so a short history lesson if I may. . .

I am not a machinist, I am a model builder who occasionally works with metal stock. I had used a UniMat (DB-200) for years before desiring to cut threads. A UniMat will cut threads, sort of, but it is done with a follower on a form, not really a satisfactory way to do things for the pitches I wanted. Actually, I had wanted to cut threads for a long time but the attachments for a UniMat were beyond my means, until. . .

In the early '90s, funds allowing (good job, reasonably secure) I acquired a small (9X19) lathe that could cut threads. At that time I took an interest in knurling. My early attempts at such were to cut a very light 16 TPI (1.5 mm pitch) thread, running first forward(right hand) and then cutting a left hand thread. At that point, I discovered there was no way for the low end machine to cut left hand threads. No way to reverse the lead screw. . . Following the "invention" of a reverse tumbler, I was able to do so but the results were not really satisfactory. In fact, the results were downright disgusting. At that point, I seriously investigated a knurling tool, ending up with a scissors type because of the light size of my machine.

With all that said, the configuration of the displayed tool doesn't fit my sensabilities. To "cut" a knurl would equate to a multipass threading operation operation, requiring a traverse in both right hand and left hand directions. I can see where the knurling "teeth" could cut a multi-pass groove(light thread), in one direction. But to cut in the reverse direction, reversing the leadscrew would be necessary. In essence, making two passes to get the desired form.

The above is not a very clear description of what I see in my mind's eye. For this, I apologize. . . Basically, cutting a knurl doesn't seem possible without that reverse pass. I can see where the tool would cut the desired form, but it would be one sided without that reverse pass. That is why I stand my ground to it being a modification of the pressure type tool, with displacement but not much pressure on the spindle.

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With all the foo fah rah, I will have to concede that there is indeed such a thing. I went so far as to follow up a link to WWGranger to see one. Which they had, but no indication on how to use it. So I fear for many sleepless nights until I can see one in action on a slow enough machine to resolve how it works. At my age, in a chair, and the general closing of shops in my area, I don't anticipate a shop big enough to rate one allowing me to set foot on the property. So I'll revert to uTube to find a video of one.

I apologize to the OP, and to any and all for my doubting ways. The way I see it, the concept is similar to space aliens. I don't particularly believe or disbelieve, either way, but want to see it to truely believe it.

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Bi11Hudson said:
With all the foo fah rah, I will have to concede that there is indeed such a thing. I went so far as to follow up a link to WWGranger to see one. Which they had, but no indication on how to use it. So I fear for many sleepless nights until I can see one in action on a slow enough machine to resolve how it works. At my age, in a chair, and the general closing of shops in my area, I don't anticipate a shop big enough to rate one allowing me to set foot on the property. So I'll revert to uTube to find a video of one.

I apologize to the OP, and to any and all for my doubting ways. The way I see it, the concept is similar to space aliens. I don't particularly believe or disbelieve, either way, but want to see it to truely believe it.

.
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No apology necessary mate. I think the reverse cut has to do with the bottom wheel now being rotated 180degrees to the top one. In fact there are cheaper cut knurlers that have one wheel which you use in a top configuration for first pass then rotate it to the bottom position for the next pass.

It is confusing but rember in this tool there are two dynamics at play. The part is rotating and so it the cutting tool will add the carriage advancing . So there is more in the go than in a threading operation.

I also battle to understand it but I hear it works so when I saw it at this price point I just grabbed it.

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buffdan said:
Yes, the scale is for diameter. I assume there is a knob on top we cant see, or a diameter setting screw which adjusts the distance between the wheels for the diameter corresponding to the scale. the other 2 knobs allow equal placement of the knurl wheels on the work piece, so they both contact the work piece equally, at the same time. There is probably a center locating hole, indentation, on the side opposite the wheels. You place a center in the tailstock and set the center height of the tool with the tailstock center.
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Hi, thanks a lot for this, that instruction manual looks like exactly what I have. There is no diameter setting screw, But on the rear you can see that each post is held in place by a socket cap screw, removing them you can see that the posts are a tapered fit so I think it is a matter of loosening the socket cap screws, setting the desired diameter using the scale on the front of the tool and then tightening the SC screws and securing the posts in their tapers. That instruction manual you posted says to do exactly that. Being a german made tool I am assuming the diameter scale is in mm. I think I now just need to get a new set of wheels as this has one AA and one 15 degree wheel which I dont believe is correct. Also the previous owner has a washer under one of the wheel carriers which was not under the other. Looks like it was put there because the securing bolt is too long and does not secure the wheel (ends up with about 1mm of play). I will get some shorter bolts. Not sure why the previous owner ground the heads down either, I cant see them doing so for clearance unless they were using it the wrong way around!

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Just to add - now that you gave me a model number to search for I have a lot more information, even a video on how to use it:

Looks like I have a older version of the RF2 cut knurler. Same but different Flustered
 
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Update to this - I got hold of the local agents for Hommel Keller and the guys were pretty helpful. They told me that they sell this tool new for R18 000 or $1170. So my R500 (&32) was a steal.

The previous owner seemed to have some things messed up - it had one AA wheel and one RH wheel which is not correct. Also the wheels were in bad shape. The agent gave me a discount on a set of new wheels (when he heard that this is for a hobby workshop). So all up with new wheels I am in for about $130. Should have the new wheels before the end of the week and can give it a try. Thanks to the guys that helped me.
 
I do suck don't i

This park broker is in an industrial area on the other side of town. They have an entire shelf with starrett and more and Wright micrometers, indicators etc... All for a steal (more and Wright micrometer I see there for about $15).being and industrial area there are a lot of those sort of businesses and being south Africa these tools manage to "go missing" and probably end up at these pawn shops.

Couple of months ago I got a tapping head for about $30.
I try pop in there every couple of months and see if there is anything exciting to buy. But this has been the best find so far. I was actualize about to leave the store when I decided to rumble through a shelf full of dull milling cutters and even duller lath tools when my eye caught this knurler lying amongst the junk.


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The new wheels arrived today. This was my first attempt at cut knurling.

Wow this is so much smoother than form knurling. The lathe handled it like any normal cutting operation. Also the knurl in the photo is the same diameter as the first original bar stock
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