Carriage stop project off to a rough start

[Winegrower]

The Takisawa has a adjustable feed clutch, as did my Logan. If I had it set to what felt like a tolerable impact against a stop, a heavy cut could stall out the feed. When adjusted up for the cut issue, it just seemed too careless to let brute force overpower the clutch.

Is it normal practice to use a stop against power feed? I have not seen this indicated in a manual as an operating tip.

 

[Janderso]

@rwm if it is 4140, it will significantly strengthen by hardening, leading to less chance of a problem. Hard metal will accept swarf less readily and so will be less prone to scoring the ways.

Thank you dabler, I was questioning if hardening the part was a bad idea?
I wanted to use my new kiln. This seemed like a good place to check it out

 

[Janderso]

The Takisawa has a adjustable feed clutch, as did my Logan. If I had it set to what felt like a tolerable impact against a stop, a heavy cut could stall out the feed. When adjusted up for the cut issue, it just seemed too careless to let brute force overpower the clutch.

Is it normal practice to use a stop against power feed? I have not seen this indicated in a manual as an operating tip.

I have only used my saddle clutch once. I was threading and did not have an undercut, when I pulled back on the half nut lever it was stuck!!
The clutch kicked in and it went into neutral so I know it works. (The tool hit the shoulder and stopped)
I had to wash my pants, should have wore my brown pants . I didn't say that out loud did I?

 

[Dabbler]

When done, you will have to pay atention to surface finishing afterwards.

 

[Janderso]

Is it normal practice to use a stop against power feed? I have not seen this indicated in a manual as an operating tip.

I have seen this done many times watching Youtube tutorials. Lathes that are equipped with this feature easily kick out feeds when needed. IMHO

 

[Janderso]

When done, you will have to pay atention to surface finishing afterwards.

Please explain why

 

[Dabbler]

Please explain why

The contact pieces at least have to be ground, stoned or sanded smooth. The scale from heat treat on a microscopic level is very sharp and very, very hard. Even moving it one the veeway will begin to induce scratches.

it is no big deal to stone it, or use a belt sander to take the scale off. It is hard enough to break downthe edge of your files if you file it, and filing HT scale can quickly dull a file if done often.

You can leave the bottom clamp 'in the rough' -- that surface is only used for clamping and the bottom guide for the carriage, so scratches and wear doesn't matter much.

 

[Janderso]

The contact pieces at least have to be ground, stoned or sanded smooth. The scale from heat treat on a microscopic level is very sharp and very, very hard. Even moving it one the veeway will begin to induce scratches.

it is no big deal to stone it, or use a belt sander to take the scale off. It is hard enough to break downthe edge of your files if you file it, and filing HT scale can quickly dull a file if done often.

You can leave the bottom clamp 'in the rough' -- that surface is only used for clamping and the bottom guide for the carriage, so scratches and wear doesn't matter much.

OK, I'll run them through the surface grinder using a CBN wheel. Smooth as glass.
Thank you

 

[akjeff]

The Takisawa has a adjustable feed clutch, as did my Logan. If I had it set to what felt like a tolerable impact against a stop, a heavy cut could stall out the feed. When adjusted up for the cut issue, it just seemed too careless to let brute force overpower the clutch.

Is it normal practice to use a stop against power feed? I have not seen this indicated in a manual as an operating tip.

I don't generally use it as a normal practice, but it does work. I'm still a chicken and stop the power feed just short, and bump it against the stop by hand. Maybe I'll get more comfortable with it some day. I've seen some More-Seiki( I believe ) that have adjustable bumpers that trip a lever, rather than a clutch type. A better mousetrap IMO, as it wouldn't matter how heavy or light a cut you were making, since there's no clutch variable.

 

[Janderso]

The contact pieces at least have to be ground, stoned or sanded smooth. The scale from heat treat on a microscopic level is very sharp and very, very hard. Even moving it one the veeway will begin to induce scratches.

it is no big deal to stone it, or use a belt sander to take the scale off. It is hard enough to break downthe edge of your files if you file it, and filing HT scale can quickly dull a file if done often.

You can leave the bottom clamp 'in the rough' -- that surface is only used for clamping and the bottom guide for the carriage, so scratches and wear doesn't matter much.

I wasn’t able to reach the critical areas due to the acute angles.
I was able to clean up the scale with my scotchbrite wheel.
Boy is this stuff hard!