Compressor troubleshoot & "upgrade"

Suzuki4evr

Suzuki4evr

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Hallo guys.

My 50L direct drive compressor decided today,after 10 years of running every day,to NOT build pressure. It still runs very nice but won't build pressure. I have read up a bit and the problem could be the reader valve or something like that. I phoned a local compressor company and they told me I won't get parts for it because it is direct drive. Are they having me on or is this true,is it not fixable?

I don't want to just chuck it,because I feel it is still useable somehow,hoping to be fixed. I did buy another one in the meantime cause I need one. I do have a another question. Is it possible to join the two tanks,SAFELY, because the old tank is still in very good shape,to make a 100L capacity compressor? If possible, can I keep the same gauges? How would I go about it? Have some of our members tried something like this?

My biggest concern is SAFETY and I I hope that if this is possible, that it can be achieved with some pipe conections.

Thank you for viewing. Waitng for your response

-Michael-
 
I never junk anything until I have taken it apart and found damage that is beyond my ability to repair.
There is a good chance it is a reed valve. reed valves are usually flat metal or plastic and not real hard to reproduce.

If it is not repairable, I would keep the tank and tie the 2 tanks together, You can either hard pipe them together or I just put a quick disconnect and shut off valve on each tank with a short length of large size flexible hose connecting them. This allows me to fill the tank and then toss a tank full of air to take with me to fill a tire or something
 
Thers no reason you can't tandem the 2 resevoirs with standard pipe fittings.
A couple of things to concider, Be sure ther esoviors have been hydro tested, I would think the new resovoir would be fine, test the old one. Connect the tresoviors together at the bottom of each with pipe ,vales to isolate each and a union . Any condensation will collect at the bottom of the resoviors. The discharge outlet should be at the top of the last tresovoir. Be sure to have drains on both resovoirs at the lowest point. I would install electric drain valves that way they could be wired so both activate at the same time draining both resovoirs at the same time. Plumb the drain valves to discharge out side the buiding if you can or into a floor drain.The second resevoir will probay acumilate more condensation as the air will have cooled somewhat coming from the first resevoir. If you can plumb the compressor inlet outside with a filter, this will cut down on noise.
 
It would be best if you located one tank on each end of your system. I know that would be a PITA so just remove the faulty pump and pipe the new one into where the old pump connected. Oh, no need to remove the check valve going into the old tank, It's optional.
 
aliva said:
Be sure ther esoviors have been hydro tested, I would think the new resovoir would be fine, test the old one.
Click to expand...
Firstly thanks for the response as usual. And B, I am going to try and fix it first,but I need time to strip it first. Now I am going to maybe ask a silly question but I am not familiar with air compressors. Where would the reed valve be? My guess is in the motor,would I be guessing right? How do you do a hydro test?
 
First off try and find a service manual, or at least a parts diagram. They will identify the valves and all other parts. The service manual should give a proceedure for repairing the valves.
A hydro test, or fully known as a hydrostatic test, will determine the integrity of the resovior.
The test requires that you fill the resevoir with water to the very top, with the least amount of air present as possable. Pressurize the resevoir with air. Check the resovoir for a name plate or certification plate, it should indicate the max pressure the resevoir was designed for. Most tests are conducted at a pressure of 125% of normal operating pressure. I've used a scuba tank from a freind with a regulator for the air supply. Once the revsevoir is pressurized check for leakage. Hold this pressure for at least 15-20 minutes. If the revsvoir is going to leak it should happen within this time frame. Don't be concerned if some of your pipe fittings leak a little, this normal. Your testing the resevoir not the fittings.The reason water is used is that it does not compress, so if there is a faiure the water will just leak out with minimal force.. If you used air to pressurize and there was a failure you have bomb.
 
The reed valves will be near the air inlet and outlet ports. Sometimes they are even partly visible just by looking into the port.

I would not use air to pressurize the vessel, use water. You can buy a hand pump for around $60 to $70 to do the test yourself properly. A scuba tank is well over 2000 psi, if you do something wrong you WILL blow up your compressor tank.

Get the hydro pump ans share it with your friends to test their tanks, maybe get them to split the cost for a tool that is only needed once every few years. But gives great peace of mind. Look for youtube vids of an air compressor tank letting go.
 
Flyinfool said:
Look for youtube vids of an air compressor tank letting go.
Click to expand...
Yep. Saw that. That's why I drain frequently and there is always a creamy water coming out,never rusty so I take that as a good sign.
 
What's a 50 L? Your compressor doesn't have a brand name?
Direct drive relates to the motor and pumps drive arrangement but doesn't tell us if it is a rotary or a reciprocating pump.
When someone tells me something is not repairable I start talking to other people.
 
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