Cutting Thick Sheet Metal

Yeah the nibbler, electric or air powered, is the spawn of satin when it comes to cutting stainless sheet. It creates thousands of razor sharp tiny crescents that shoot everywhere. The powered shear is much better in that regard, but I've had mixed results with the Harbor Freight versions, go figure.
 
I cut some cold-rolled 16 Ga steel with a metal cutting blade on a 7-1/4" circular saw. I had a large 24" x 96" pc that needed a 6" x 8" notch cut out of it. I set the blade for VERY shallow and had to make about 5 passes before I cut thru the piece. It got hot and discolored, but it cut a neat line. I wore gloves, safety glasses, ear protection, a mask and long sleeves. Sparks went everywhere.

I only needed this once, but if I was doing this on a regular basis I think I'd get a metal-cutting saw and blade.
 
I didn't see any mention of friction sawing. Put an old blade on the bandsaw BACKWARDS. Run it as fast as the saw will go, cut in vertical mode. I've never tried it on a 4x6, works a charm on a Do-All.
 
When you say "backwards". Do you mean with the teeth pointing up, or with the back of the blade against the material?
Robert
 
rwm said:
When you say "backwards". Do you mean with the teeth pointing up, or with the back of the blade against the material?
Robert
Click to expand...
The hardware store recommended using a 200 tooth circular saw blade to cut aluminum siding when I was doing a remodel years ago. Basically like running a standard end mill CCW.

Bruce
 
rwm said:
When you say "backwards". Do you mean with the teeth pointing up, or with the back of the blade against the material?
Robert
Click to expand...

Teeth pointing "up". I've cut a file this way.

Thinking about it for a moment, a wood cutting bandsaw might be useful for this.
 
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