Electrolysis Rust Removal Sb 10l Dual Tumbler Gear Box.

Just get a gallon or two of Evapo-rust and put the whole unit in it. It won't harm the bronze or anything else, well, maybe the screen printing on the threading chart if it has any iron oxide in the paint. You can re-bottle and re-use it as well.

You can also do a search on this forum for "evapo-rust" as we've discussed it in detail before. - http://www.evapo-rust.com/

-Ron
 
Both the molasses and evapo-rust treatments sound too good to be true. Has anyone else used these methods?

Chuck the grumpy old guy
 
evpo rust-part completely submerged,thoroughly rinsed and oiled. Pitted part,still pitted. Worn areas,still worn. Shiny surfaces will discolour.
 
Both the molasses and evapo-rust treatments sound too good to be true. Has anyone else used these methods?

Chuck the grumpy old guy

I've used Evaporust. Totally boss & it performed as advertised. I got mine @ O'Rileys Auto Parts. I believe Autozone & Harbor Frightening also have it.
 
I used to use the evaporust method and it does work quite well for smaller objects. But it can be costly for large objects and that is why I went to the electrolysis method for larger stuff. I do still use evaporust for small parts though. The electrolysis method uses nothing more than water, baking soda and a battery charger which is a lot cheaper for large objects.
 
I have used both with good results. The evapo rust you have to get stuff clean before you start, Oil causes the stuff not to work to well. The electrolysis worked on my large parts, and cleaned them with no problems. Again neither ca help pits and wear. but they clean it out wo you can level it or whatever.
 
The molasses method won't work if there is heavy oil and grease either, I degrease the parts and rinse them with the pressure washer. Molasses is cheap if you buy it at a feed store. Just cleaned the front end on my new to me shaper. The parts barely fit in a 45 gallon drum. I payed $20 for 30 pounds, (they sell by weight) about 3 gallons of molasses. Unlike electrolysis it isn't directional, so it will clean inside cavities like the hollow table of the shaper. When your done simply pour it down the drain or in my case the swamp out back.

Greg
 
Many years ago, I used electrolysis to remove rust from steel but mainly to remove chrome plating from brass, it worked very well.

Recently, I have researched the electrolysis method in depth as I have an upcoming rust removal project, Here is what I have gathered:
The best/safest electrolyte to use is Sodium Carbonate (Washing Soda). Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) also works, but not as well.
Never use Sodium Chloride as an electrolyte as it will generate Chlorine Gas, which can kill you.
The best material for an anode is Graphite. Apparently, it does not deteriorateit and leaves the solution fairly clean.
The larger the part the more current you'll need, some even report using a DC Arc Welder for a power source!
It can be done without using an external power source by connecting the rusted part to a Zinc Anode with a piece of Iron wire and immersing them in a mild Sulfuric Acid solution (Very important to maintain good electrical connection between the part and the anode).
Any of these methods should always be done outdoors as Hydrogen and Oxygen will be produced, if confined could result in a very powerful explosion (Now don't get any naughty ideas!).
 
Electrolysis is basically 'line-of-sight'. Mask 'em off with some good tape or grease them, they should be alright.
As mentioned above there are several threads on the subject here on H-M.
Sodium Carbonate is the best IMO, and has turned out good results for me.
 
Many years ago, I used electrolysis to remove rust from steel but mainly to remove chrome plating from brass, it worked very well.

Recently, I have researched the electrolysis method in depth as I have an upcoming rust removal project, Here is what I have gathered:
The best/safest electrolyte to use is Sodium Carbonate (Washing Soda). Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) also works, but not as well.
Never use Sodium Chloride as an electrolyte as it will generate Chlorine Gas, which can kill you.
The best material for an anode is Graphite. Apparently, it does not deteriorateit and leaves the solution fairly clean.
The larger the part the more current you'll need, some even report using a DC Arc Welder for a power source!
It can be done without using an external power source by connecting the rusted part to a Zinc Anode with a piece of Iron wire and immersing them in a mild Sulfuric Acid solution (Very important to maintain good electrical connection between the part and the anode).
Any of these methods should always be done outdoors as Hydrogen and Oxygen will be produced, if confined could result in a very powerful explosion (Now don't get any naughty ideas!).

If you don't have sodium carbonate (washing soda) simply get some sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and cook it in an oven at. 375 deg f. For about 45 minutes. The process creates washing soda. I have used the electrolysis process many times.
 
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