Electrolysis Rust Removal Sb 10l Dual Tumbler Gear Box.

+1 on the molasses. Works great on large parts and if you can wait a bit for it to do its thing. Slightly warm seems to work faster, so I just set it outside in the sun.

-frank
 
This all sounds pretty high tech just to remove rust. Why can't you just throw 'em in the blasting cabinet?
 
derf said:
This all sounds pretty high tech just to remove rust. Why can't you just throw 'em in the blasting cabinet?
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Well, not everyone is blessed with a blast cabinet or the CFM to run it. Also blasting removes metal, not appropriate for precision surfaces.
 
derf said:
This all sounds pretty high tech just to remove rust. Why can't you just throw 'em in the blasting cabinet?
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Besides removing unnecessary metal, blasting creates residue stresses in parts. So you wind up with warped parts that were straight. Not a bad thing for large castings.

Vinegar works too! For removing rust!
 
John Hasler said:
Electrolytic derusting does not reverse the process. It does remove the rust without removing any of the uncorroded metal.
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I would think that you might be able to find some plastic cap plugs or similar items to seal off the bushings. Perhaps some Permatex (black) or other mastic as an added seal on the brass end faces to insulate them from chemical activity. Perhaps rubber stoppers or corks with sealant would work as well.
 
Evidently you must have assumed I was talking about blasting with some real abrasive stuff. There are many blasting mediums that do not remove good metal. I don't know how much pressure it would take to warp cast gears, but I'm sure I couldn't do if I tryed.
As far as precision surfaces, if these gears are already rusty, they are less than precision to start with. Besides the corrosion and pitting, a less than glass smooth finish is actually a benefit to retaining lubrication.
 
derf said:
Evidently you must have assumed I was talking about blasting with some real abrasive stuff. There are many blasting mediums that do not remove good metal. I don't know how much pressure it would take to warp cast gears, but I'm sure I couldn't do if I tryed.
As far as precision surfaces, if these gears are already rusty, they are less than precision to start with. Besides the corrosion and pitting, a less than glass smooth finish is actually a benefit to retaining lubrication.
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If you won the lottery you could use dry ice. Does not abrade but pops off paint or soft rust without compromising the integrity of the metal. Also the remaining debris is just the stuff removed making cleanup easier. I think that the original theme of the thread concerned compromising the nonferrous bushings by electrolysis. The other more economical blasting media that comes to mind is walnut shell.
 
Thanks guys, I ended up just doing it with no obvious ill effects. I am hunting down the two ball bearings in the gear box and have decent part numbers I think but the bearing for the lead screw being a thrust bearing the inner race and ball bearing popped out leaving the outer race in the casting so now I have to figure out if I can get the race out without damaging the casting or buy a new one and just leave the race as is and pop the new guts in.
 
I'm a big fan of using good ol' Distilled White Vinegar to dissolve rust. readily available CHEAP! and ... chances are the wife has it in the pantry :)
I keep a couple gallons in the garage for soaking parts in, allow anything rusty to sit in it for a day or two take it out and give it a quick scrub and rinse and all rust will be gone.
its strong enough to do the job but wont cause bodily harm and only downfall is it stinks like well vinegar lol.
 
I collect Erector sets; guys have used Lysol Toilet Bowl Cleaner (mild acid) to clean parts.
 
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