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Enco 105-1110/RF-30 just landed in my shop...

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TerryH

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New stand construction is also underway. I'm building it from doug fir 4x and 2x lumber with 3/4 Baltic birch ply panel inserts. Multi layer BB top.

Front will have 4 srawers on full extension slides and 'll mill inserts to hold the end mills, collets etc...

My scribbled rough dimensional drawings...





I purchased the rough lumber and squared 2 sides on my jointer and planed to final dimensions of 3 1/4 x 3 1/4 for the legs and 1 1/4 x 3 1/4 for the rails and cross braces.



More to come...
 

kvt

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Keep it coming your giving us ideas. I was looking at making my frame out of 1 inch square stock. What kind of slides are you going to use on the drawers.
 

TerryH

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Keep it coming your giving us ideas. I was looking at making my frame out of 1 inch square stock. What kind of slides are you going to use on the drawers.
Thanks. I do hope that these posts are helpful to someone.

I've used this construction method on a few other projects with great results. There will be 3/4 baltic birch plywood inset into grooves in the legs and the rails. Once those assemblies are glued together they make for extremely strong panels. I did a similar construction on the ends of my reloading bench with 3/4" melamine.

The rails are attached to the legs with pocket screws but the glue is doing much of the work. Example of the construction from the reloading bench build...





Additional cross bracing reinforces these joints but here you can see the basic pocket screw construction.



Drawers will also be BB plywood with dovetail construction. I typically use 1/2" for the sides and 1/4" for the bottoms but I'll use 1/2" bottoms on this project for added strength given the potential weight in these drawers. These are the drawer parts from the reloading bench.



They are milled using a Porter Cable dovetail jig.

 
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TerryH

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Vacation day today so that equals a morning spent in the shop. Got the stand parts cut to length and the grooves for the panels milled on the router table.



I also cut the panels and drilled for the pocket screws. Dry fit everything to make for sure I was good.



Pretty much just a matter of lots of glue in the grooves and clamping everything together so I can put in the pocket screws.



Added the front rails and the basic assembly is complete.







I added a couple of cross braces also attached with pocket screws. The base is plenty stout for sure.





That's going to be about it for today and I'm out of town until next week so will resume construction then.
 

kvt

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Yea, I saw the post on the other thread first. you have to see the comment. Again it is looking good.
How much does it weigh. Also what brand of draw slides are you using. I'm looking.
 

TerryH

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Thanks. Not sure how much it weighs but it's hefty and still quite a bit of weight to add. I could add some pavers or chucks of steel in the bottom if I feel like it needs more. I have 3 1/4" of space below the drawers.

I've been using these cheap slides from Amazon for the last few projects. So far they've done very well. 100 lb. rated. Full extension. I'll probably put 2 sets on the bottom drawer. At this price I suppose I could double up all of them.

https://www.amazon.com/Friho-Hardware-Bearing-Extension-Available/dp/B074PQRL9M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1530226342&sr=8-4&keywords=18+full+extension+drawer+slides
 

TerryH

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While I was out running around this afternoon I took a few minutes to stop by my local Habitat Store. Scored a massive 1 3/4" thick solid core door for $10.25. Love these solid core doors for bench tops. Super heavy and flat. I had to take a few minutes to cut it to size. I'm going to brake up some stainless or aluminum to cover it.





New stand is 33" tall and the one that came with the mill is 31".

 

TerryH

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Little more progress. I ripped some 2x lumber for supports for the 3/4" BB ply that I'm using to mount the drawer slides and got all of that glued and screwed to the cabinet.







Cut more 2x lumber and pocket screwed those pieces into the top structure to mount the top and eventually the mill. Even got to whip out the old 606C Bedrock plane to get everything dead flat so the top mounts to a rock solid base.



Had my buddy at my local sheetmetal shop fab up a stainless pan to go on the top.







Started milling some chunks of white oak to house the end mills and such so I can finalize what the drawer configuration is going to be. I think these are going to work out pretty well. I have a bunch of scraps so I'll make these for all the mills, collets etc..

 

ttabbal

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Dude... you're making my lathe bench feel bad. That's some nice work!
 

Cadillac STS

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Could consider making one drawer deep so you could store tools mounted in collets upright. Then again 3 thinner drawers in the space of the taller drawer could store them flat.
 

Figor

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Nice work on the mill. I have a Smithy BX288 round column. About the same thing but with a geared head. Very capable mills. I was warned about the round column prior to buying it and I have to admit it has given me fits at times, but it's nice to have a mill at my disposal. I'm surprised there aren't more square column conversions going on with these. I've only seen a few on the web and there wasn't much info on them. I would certainly be interested in doing one.
I just picked up a power feed for it and am anxious to fit it up. Dro is next.

Again nice work and have fun with it.

Fig
 

TerryH

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Could consider making one drawer deep so you could store tools mounted in collets upright. Then again 3 thinner drawers in the space of the taller drawer could store them flat.
I've been back and forth on the vertical or flat question many times on this project. I see advantages to both but have decided to go with deeper drawers and upright storage for the end mills, collets etc... I feel like it's a bit more efficient than storing those items flat. Other things like drill chucks, end mill holders and such seem to work better flat. Still a work in progress.
 

TerryH

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Nice work on the mill. I have a Smithy BX288 round column. About the same thing but with a geared head. Very capable mills. I was warned about the round column prior to buying it and I have to admit it has given me fits at times, but it's nice to have a mill at my disposal. I'm surprised there aren't more square column conversions going on with these. I've only seen a few on the web and there wasn't much info on them. I would certainly be interested in doing one.
I just picked up a power feed for it and am anxious to fit it up. Dro is next.

Again nice work and have fun with it.

Fig
Thanks Fig! I've not seen a square column conversion. Didn't even know there was such. Sounds interesting though.
 

Ben Nevis

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By "square column conversion", I assume this is what was meant.

 

TerryH

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Got the top permanently glued and screwed to the base before calling it a day yesterday.



The word of the day for today is drawers. The Porter Cable 4210 jig makes pretty quick work of it.



I wanted to use 1/2" BB ply for the bottoms for stiffness. I milled a 5/16" groove and rabbited the edge of the ply to fit.







Sanded and assembled and sanded some more.

 

Cadillac STS

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Could consider putting a thin stainless steel sheet in the bottom of the drawers now while they are still pristine. Your friend that made the top could cut those for you easily. Because you would expect oil and grease to leak to the bottom with the metal working tools compared to a drawer for wood working tools. Then you can just wipe it up and not let the wood get saturated.

You would also of course put rubber on the bottoms with tool box liner on top of the sheet metal. So the tools don't bounce and dull.
 

TerryH

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Could consider putting a thin stainless steel sheet in the bottom of the drawers now while they are still pristine. Your friend that made the top could cut those for you easily. Because you would expect oil and grease to leak to the bottom with the metal working tools compared to a drawer for wood working tools. Then you can just wipe it up and not let the wood get saturated.

You would also of course put rubber on the bottoms with tool box liner on top of the sheet metal. So the tools don't bounce and dull.
I just may do that. I normally just leave drawers naked but I plan to put some clear on these for just the reason you stated. Some stainless or aluminum sounds like a good idea also.
 

Silverbullet

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About 25 years ago , I built rolling drawers like what your making . They were dovetailed to only 3'x 2' x 12" , I used red oak plywood and put 3/4" in the bottom. Had wheels mounted on the 2' sides , to roll under a church nursery cribs that stacked two high. Had to be tuff with the little ones climbing riding hiding in them. Spent lots of time building things for there , all free to. Nice job on your stand and I do love the paint job. Glad you found a great machine . I hope to God to get my shop set up.
 

TerryH

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About 25 years ago , I built rolling drawers like what your making . They were dovetailed to only 3'x 2' x 12" , I used red oak plywood and put 3/4" in the bottom. Had wheels mounted on the 2' sides , to roll under a church nursery cribs that stacked two high. Had to be tuff with the little ones climbing riding hiding in them. Spent lots of time building things for there , all free to. Nice job on your stand and I do love the paint job. Glad you found a great machine . I hope to God to get my shop set up.
Thank you sir. I'm continuing to lift up your health issues and for you get your shop going.
 

TerryH

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Painting wood, or rather prepping wood to an acceptable level to paint is not my favorite. Lots of primer and spot putty required but I'm almost there. The plywood inserts will be covered so no need to prime or paint them.





 

TerryH

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Lookin good !! Now finish it up and send it to me so you kin start on yours......;)
Thanks! Just forward me your CC# and I'll get it on the way the second it's done. :grin:
 

TerryH

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And finally it's green...



Now to mount the slides and get the ATP cut and installed on the sides and the drawer fronts. I'm ready for it to be under the mill.

 

TerryH

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I'm jealous. Nice work!
Thanks! I am past ready to be done with it. I'll pick up the rest of the tread plate tomorrow and hopefully get the mill on the stand. May need the engine hoist just to get the stand off my bench. lol.. That sucker is heavy.
 

TerryH

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I realize most..if not all...of you probably think it's nuts to go to this extent just for a base for a crappy old mill but when I build anything especially something for the shop, my first thought is that I'm going to have to look at it and live with it for the rest of my life. With that in mind I do like to make things that are pleasing to my eye. This has my stamp of eyeball approval. lol... Now to get the mill on it.



 
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