Enco 111-2079 no start

[markba633csi]

Diagram:

 

[Griff_Lane]

Terminal strip 0 to terminal strip #2 read 32.2V.

E-stop jumper connected to Power Start to #3 32.2V.

The wire nut with jumper turned out to not have wire from panel coming in. When I reconnected it the KM1 energized immediately. Apron switch works, lathes goes forward and reverse. It's just always energized unless estop is pushed in. If apron switch is left on and the estop taken off (twisted and popped out) it will immediately start running again.

 

[Griff_Lane]

Shouldn't it be reset and have to hit the power start after an e stop is pressed?

 

[markba633csi]

Yes! Now you need to put the KM1-3 and 5 wires back on 14 and 13 the way they were
Use a gentle touch the plastic on those things can be brittle from age

The lathe requires you to have the apron lever in neutral first, then push power start.
KM1 should pull and latch. Then apron lever should work forward and reverse.
If E-stop is pushed, the process starts over. It's a safety thing

 

[Griff_Lane]

Well, as I was reconnecting things one of the fuse wires broke off. Things are so tight in there it's a struggle to resolder it. Any recommendations on replacement fuse holders, or crimps to use instead?

 

[markba633csi]

If it's just the wire then you just need to get access to resolder it. Maybe unbolt the fuseholder bracket? Might be spotwelded tho
You could also just run a wire and bypass it for now- the diagram on post #41 shows how it connects.

If you were going to sell the machine it doesn't matter that much as long as it runs
You could get one of these types:

https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-12731-Inline-Fuse-Holder/dp/B000N9PI32/ref=sr_1_24?crid=2OQUIZTCN7JLF&keywords=inline+fuse+holder+12v&qid=1707794532&sprefix=fuseholder%2Caps%2C367&sr=8-24

Myself, being a cheap SOB I would just take a glass fuse and wrap wires on both ends, tape it with masking tape and Voila! homemade fuseholder

 

[Griff_Lane]

@markba633csi I can't thank you enough! These electrical pieces arent super familiar to me, but today after work I was finally able to get things hooked back up and it turns on as expected!

 

[markba633csi]

Yay! Way to go! I do this for fun, I used to do electronics work for a living
Big shout out to a new member Radials who posted a helpful Enco manual I hadn't seen before

 

[AllenV]

Yay! Way to go! I do this for fun, I used to do electronics work for a living
Big shout out to a new member Radials who posted a helpful Enco manual I hadn't seen before

Thank you for mentioning that manual posted by @Radials

I am constantly collecting Enco manuals for the day when my 510-2585 needs help.

Here is a link to that 110-1351 lathe

Enco 110-1351 control panel wiring diagram

I'm looking for a wiring diagram or picture of a properly wired control panel for an Enco 110-1351. I picked one up for my home shop, and the emergency stop button was broken and wired around. I replaced it and the burnt out power bulb. Everything functions as expected except the power bulb...

www.hobby-machinist.com

Now, I suppose I ought to scan my original manual and post that as well.

 

[Harry Knutz]

Terminal strip 0 to terminal strip #2 read 32.2V.

E-stop jumper connected to Power Start to #3 32.2V.

The wire nut with jumper turned out to not have wire from panel coming in. When I reconnected it the KM1 energized immediately. Apron switch works, lathes goes forward and reverse. It's just always energized unless estop is pushed in. If apron switch is left on and the estop taken off (twisted and popped out) it will immediately start running again.

I have this exact same lathe, Mark helped me repair electrical issues also.

My lathe once it's plugged in, it is always energized so that's normal. It makes a small hum until I unplug it. I'm going to install a disconnect type switch, I just unplug it when I am done using it for now.

I was actually surprised at how good of a lathe these are, I have already done a couple of barrels on it and made quite a few small parts. The only complaint I have for it is the tailstock doesn't have a stop for the taper on the drill chuck to keep it from spinning when you are drilling with larger bits. I am going to drill and tap the quill for a 1/4 20 brass set screw to stop the taper from spinning.

And lastly, These lathes get the motors changed out often, But it's the centrifugal switch that goes out on them. It's easy to change and easy to find a new one even though it's 30 years old.

Centrifugal Switch Motor Accessories L19-304P Centrifugal Switch For Single | eBay

The number behind the beginning of L type of centrifugal switch is the size of the big round hole and motor shaft. Centrifugal switches are widely used in all kinds of motors. 1 Centrifugal switch.

www.ebay.com