First threads!

Dave, I've posted this chart multiple times on this forum but thought I would do it again because it is an extremely useful chart. It tells you what your blank OD should be to produce the class of fit you want, be it a class 1, 2 or 3A. It also gives you the pertinent pitch diameter so you know what your target range is when you use your thread mic. You won't need all of this data for every thread you make. Most of the time you can cut to fit a nut or female thread you already have, in which case the following formulas will get you close enough.

Estimated thread infeed using cross slide = 0.75/tpi; Alternative formula = Maj dia - Min dia / 2
Estimated thread infeed using compound = 0.75/tpi X 0.866 (which is the Cosine of 30 degrees)

Note that no formula is exact. It is wise to begin checking for fit or pitch diameter before you get to any calculated infeed. I typically start checking at least 0.005" before, or more for a class 3 thread. You do not want to overshoot your final depth of cut.

It is also important to taper your infeed depths of cut. For the first pass, you can go up to about 0.010" deep but for subsequent passes you want to take lighter cuts because more of the tool will be engaged in the cut as you go deeper and cutting forces increase dramtically. For a second pass, 0.005" works, then 0.003-4" for the third pass, then 0.002-3 for the fourth pass and so on.
Thanks for this Mike.
As I don't have thread wires or mic just yet I used the fit the female thread approach for the 3/8-16 thread.
So if I read this correctly for a 3/8-16 thread
.75 /16 =.0468
.0468 X .866 = .0406 calculated thread depth.
That just happens to be the table value for 3/8-16.
Fascinating!
 
I just bought a 0-1” thread mic last night! :)

I've been using thread wires and they work, but are bit of a pain to use. I can't tell you how many times I've dropped them into the bottom of the lathe. You learn quickly to remove all swarf and debris when using thread wires so when you drop them, they will be easier to find!

Which thread mic did you purchase? I might be jealous and have to get one, too. I'm trying to resist lower-end tools especially measuring tools, but a Mitutoyo or Starrett will cost you big time. I'm thinking a Shars or SPI will probably work fine. Also, I would love a set of GO/NO GO gauges to make life easier, but they are not cheaper either.

I've learned a lot from mikey and use this formula of 0.750"/TPI to get the approx compound infeed amount. I will get to withing 0.005" to 0.008" though and start measuring because it's an approximation and it's easy to over cut especially on my small lathe. Experience!

mikey: Unless I'm reading it wrong, isn't your equations backwards? For 30 degree angle, I think it should be:
Estimated thread infeed using compound = 0.75/tpi
Estimated thread infeed using cross slide = 0.75/tpi X 0.866
 
@SLK001 newbie question; is it a 60 degree triangular file?

Yes. I also sometimes use a triangular stone to chase the threads. This is NOT to change the overall size, but to take off the "fuzz" that results from slow turning.

That's the thread mike I have (it's 0.0001" resolution vs 0.001"). With it, you'll find that cutting threads is one thing, getting them correct is another.

Not being argumentative in the least but I just wanted to be sure Dave is clear on this. A 30 degree approach angle will have most of the cutting occurring on the leading edge of the tool because it is a flank infeed BUT the trailing edge rubs at this angle, which can lead to rough threads and chatter. This is why an approach angle between 25 - 29.5 degrees is most often recommended; it eliminates trailing edge contact and produces cleaner threads. It also eliminates the need for passes with a file to clean up the flanks. A file off the top is a common practice but if the threads are cut to the proper pitch diameter with a sharp tool, this is certainly optional. A sharp HSS tool with adequate relief angles to get past any helix angle issues also goes a long way towards eliminating the burrs the file is intended to deal with.

No offense, SLK001. Just needed to clarify things so Dave understands why typical practices are what they are.

Yeah, I just rounded my angle to 30º. I normally use 29.5º. I should have been more precise.
 
Alrighty folks,
A bit more lathe time tonight.
Having had my fill of CRS I tried some 10L.
Cut off a chunk, faced it off, took .010 off the diameter.
7b59d35f6e821430b4579999fb210377.jpg

You have a harmonic vibration somewhere in your drive chain. Do you have an joint in your leather belt?
 
Alrighty folks,
A bit more lathe time tonight.
Having had my fill of CRS I tried some 10L.
Cut off a chunk, faced it off, took .010 off the diameter.

Great looking work!

You'll find that the extension ratio for well supported stock to be even more critical in threading because the forces are pretty high. That second example would have benefited from some live center TS support.

You're really getting the hang of this! Congrats.

Next up is trying a metric thread. Requires you to have understanding of the change gears on your lathe and how to reverse the chuck out of the cut without undoing the half-nuts. Also in that bucket is internal threading and internal threading away from the chuck against a shoulder.
 
Then your next step is to remove an unfinished thread from the setup, then put it back and re-establish the thread. This is a very good skill to have if you thread a lot.
 
Then your next step is to remove an unfinished thread from the setup, then put it back and re-establish the thread. This is a very good skill to have if you thread a lot.
My mechanism for re-establising threads is to take the part, look at the chuck, and toss the part in the trash heap, because that's where it was going to end up anyway :)
 
You have a harmonic vibration somewhere in your drive chain. Do you have an joint in your leather belt?
I don't actually, it's a continuous woven belt but I wonder about the marking also. It was turned using power feed so I wonder if something is amiss.
 
Great looking work!

You'll find that the extension ratio for well supported stock to be even more critical in threading because the forces are pretty high. That second example would have benefited from some live center TS support.

You're really getting the hang of this! Congrats.

Next up is trying a metric thread. Requires you to have understanding of the change gears on your lathe and how to reverse the chuck out of the cut without undoing the half-nuts. Also in that bucket is internal threading and internal threading away from the chuck against a shoulder.
Thanks Erich, it definitely feels like I'm getting a sense of it.
Yes in hindsight it definitely would have. The tolerance with the nut is closer at the beginning of the thread which I suspect is because deflection allowed the end to flex away from the tool and end up slightly larger.
 
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