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G0602/G0752Z Compound Clamp
- Thread starter WobblyHand
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,464
It shouldn't, since the clamp doesn't control the height. The protractor wheel and boss of the compound is what sets the height, and they are unchanged. The protractor dial touches the cross-slide surface, same as before.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,464
Had a struggle with the PCD function on the mill. Well not exactly with the PCD, but more with the Y-axis gib lock. The X locks behave in a somewhat predictable fashion. One lock tends to pull the table by a count or so left, and the other tends to push the table right. The Y axis locks seem to behave randomly. Drives me nuts. Have no idea what causes it. Anyways, the three extra M6 screws are in. Luckily for me, I didn't photograph the thread relief holes not quite being centered. I'm kind of embarassed by them being so far off. I had to pull the holes slightly to get the threads fully exposed. Fortunately none of this is visible, since they are on the underside of the protractor wheel which is resting on the cross-slide.
I'm going to say my work wasn't any worse than the original. The original holes weren't centered either. I have put it all together. Once the M8 nuts are tightened a quarter turn from finger tight, the compound is really fixed to the cross-slide. Can't budge it. Of course, the nuts are further tightened to a decent torque.
I'm going to say my work wasn't any worse than the original. The original holes weren't centered either. I have put it all together. Once the M8 nuts are tightened a quarter turn from finger tight, the compound is really fixed to the cross-slide. Can't budge it. Of course, the nuts are further tightened to a decent torque.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,464
Last little niggling detail that I have meant to do, but hadn't gotten around to it. Today was the day. Installed an M10 set screw in place of the M8 on my tail stock. The M8 setscrew was just pushed into the quill slot, which meant the threads of the setscrew were resisting any quill rotation. I turned down the M10 setscrew quite a while ago. I removed the quill and did a fit check. Found I needed to turn the setscrew down a tiny bit more so it would be able to traverse the quill slot without binding. Had a little trouble doing this mod since I ran out of Z travel. Fortunately found a stubby R drill that I could use in place of a 8.5mm jobber length drill, and I just barely squeaked by. Had to use a 1/2" collet to hold the tap follower, and just barely had enough Z to tap the hole.
Put it all together, and these mods are done.
Put it all together, and these mods are done.