Getting a New PM-1054 Going

Now I need to mount, plug in and test the DRO and power feeds.

I also need to tram the head and indicate the vise.
 
Now I need to mount, plug in and test the DRO and power feeds.

I also need to tram the head and indicate the vise.
Ahhhh.........the fun part. My Kurt DX6 came in last week and got it all indicated. It is very nice
 
I had a rough go of adjusting the nod for the first time. The fault lies with me.

Long story short, I loosened the bolts in the photo below at 7 and 10 o’clock (this is correct). Although I had carefully read the manual Sunday night, I mistakenly assumed that the *nod adjustment bolt* was the bolt at 3 o’clock (this is where the story gets ugly!).

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So I set about loosening & tightening this bolt at 3 o’clock. Of course, the head did not go up or down. I did notice that when I loosened the bolt to a certain point, it became so loose that it wouldn’t be adjusting anything.

I mistakenly assumed that the solution to my problem was to have a strong man lift the head while tightening the bolt (at 3 o’clock).

Continued below…
 
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Continued:

I brought my son out to help me. I pushed up against the head while he tightened that bolt. He was really straining to tighten it until he could no longer do so.

At that point, I called Precision Matthews. I spoke to Charlie, and he was very helpful. He said that he would go out & look in the shop in order to determine what the problem was. My idea was that I had stripped the brass worm gear.

While I was waiting for Charlie’s call back, I happened to see *the correct nod adjustment bolt on top of the machine*. I immediately flashed back to the machining classes that I took, and realized that I have been tightening the wrong bolt.

For all my son’s tightening the bolt at 3 o’clock (at my misdirection), he ruined the split washer and deformed the head of the bolt.

This was an easy fix, of course. I had a 1/2” split washer on hand. I used a hand file to flatten the high points on the deformed bolt head.

Of course, once I realized what bolt to use for the nod adjustment, the task went very easily from there.

As soon as I realized my error, I called PM and told them that I had made a terrible rookie mistake, and thanked them for their expedient technical help.

Moral of the story: even if you have taken machining classes and read the manual, *at the first sign of trouble* go right back to the manual.
 
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BTW I took a shortcut and trammed the head with a machinist square and a 1-2-3 block; I got a very good result! My first project is milling & beveling a plate welding coupon, and I have no doubt that the trammeling job that I did is adequate for this job.

All I have to do now is indicate the vise, and then I will be making chips!

I will also be buying some matching touch up paint because, between the rigging crew and myself, we scratched up the paint job a bit. The rigging crew was using a pry bar on the bottom of the machine, and my hacking away with the socket wrench *on the wrong nod adjustment bolt* put quite a few cosmetic scars on the machine.

A guy I work with at my current job used to manage a paint store. He said that I could remove a panel from the milling machine, and go down there and buy a quart or a gallon of (oil based?) matching paint to make ‘er look new again.
 
Here is my setup for indicating this 8” vise. It took me longer than expected (maybe an hour!) to get it to .0003” (“Three tenths”) over 7 1/2”.

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I finally get to make chips! I have been waiting for a long time to get to this point. I put a deposit on this knee mill 3 1/2 months ago, and I’ve had the machine here for 16 days!
 
I did the same thing in January for my lathe.....hopefully the end of July they are saying.
 
I did the same thing in January for my lathe.....hopefully the end of July they are saying.
I think everyone here would agree that your lathe will be worth the wait!
 
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