Green Newb here. Why do I need a rotary table?

...The reason I axe is I'm picking up a new "to me" mill this weekend and for an additional $400 it comes with a rotary table. Before you ask, I :dunno: what size/kind. My question like in the heading is: Why do I need one? I talked to my machinist friend and he tells me I'll never use it since we're going to install DRO with bolt circle pattern app. He tells me he hasn't used one in twenty years and he runs a mill all day, every day.

I've Googled them all afternoon and it seems as though (see thread here) SOME people use them. Would I be better off keeping the 400 bucks in my pocket or get the mill and EVERYTHING that is with it?

Thanks for your time and replies.

Dale

I agree with your friend. I can't recall using one in my career. Then again some may use one on a regular bases. Just depends on what type of projects you may run into. Buy one when you think you will need one.
 
If you go for the RT, it should really come with a tailstock, which is very useful if you need to support a shaft while you mill splines etc.
MIchael
 
I've only had a mill since September but I use a rotary table almost as often as I use the vise. I'm sure many would never use one but I can't imagine how to do what I've done without it. Mine is the 6" Grizzly with indexing plates and tailstock for $336 so for $400 I hope you are getting much more table.

Dave
 
If you can afford to buy it now and sell it for most of your investment later if/when you don't use it, I'd say to buy it (assuming it's worth asking price, of course.) You can buy 8" imports from Enco for under $300, but I'd personally prefer to spend the extra for a higher quality version.

If it's not a fair deal or is a financial strain, pass and buy one when you want it.

-Ryan
 
There are other applications besides bolt circles. If you need to mill out a radius groove on a part, you would need a rotary table. Radius and circle work on the mill is what its used for. Did you ever try to etch a sketch a circle? thats the dilemna you'll have if you need to. Pay now or pay later, that's what i say.:)) If you don't see yourself needing it, then , by all means , don't buy it.

Perfect analogy Marcel. I watched some videos when I got home. Should have done that earlier.:whistle: The Trainman uses the heck outta his!

I didn't know about being able to turn larger things than my lathe will swing either. THAT ALONE will pay dividends!
 
Get the RT but negotiate a lower price.

You can buy some very nice RT's for $400

That said, it seems Don is selling you his mill for a very fair price and maybe paying full retail for his RT would be a gesture of appreciation even if it isn't the best bargain you could find.

I'm excited for you!!

- - - Updated - - -

If you are going to make models you will need one. There are many parts that are circular,but have things sticking out of the circle here and there. You can't turn a non continuous circle on the lathe very well. For this situation,a rotary table will be needed.

I like your way of graduating your dial,Bill.

The 360º graduations on this surveyor's compass were graduated on an 8" Enco rotary table.It says David Brinkley because I was commissioned to make it for him. He was a famous newsman back in the 50's-70's.

Normally,the holes in this indexing attachment would be done on a rotary table. At the time though,I HAD no indexing attachment,and hand spaced these with a pair of dividers. It goes on a 6" rotary table. The rotary tables usually require calculations in the holes based on 90:1 ratio.

Actually,though,I more often use my Hardinge horizontal/vertical indexing attachment that uses 5C collets as I do a lot of small work and jewelry models for my wife's jewelry business.

Absolutely exquisite work George and seeing it always makes me realize how high the bar can be set.
 
Perfect analogy Marcel. I watched some videos when I got home. Should have done that earlier.:whistle: The Trainman uses the heck outta his!

I didn't know about being able to turn larger things than my lathe will swing either. THAT ALONE will pay dividends!

I just remembered another little project that I haven't quite gotten to that will be done on the RT.

I'm putting a BDL belt drive on my Shovelhead build along with a Baker 6 in a 4 tranny. The BDL instructions say that I need to mill down the back edge of the clutch basket by 0.10" or so to get clearance. While that could be done straight on the mill (etch-a-sketch style), the RT will give me better consistency around the edge.

I'd say to find out more about the RT, make, size, horizontal or horizontal/vertical (big difference in price usually) and if it's "worth it", go for it.

-Ron
 
As the Valleyboy said: get it with a tailstock so you can mount the RT vertically on the table. You will then have the capability to make gears and splines.
 
I just remembered another little project that I haven't quite gotten to that will be done on the RT.

I'm putting a BDL belt drive on my Shovelhead build along with a Baker 6 in a 4 tranny. The BDL instructions say that I need to mill down the back edge of the clutch basket by 0.10" or so to get clearance. While that could be done straight on the mill (etch-a-sketch style), the RT will give me better consistency around the edge.

I'd say to find out more about the RT, make, size, horizontal or horizontal/vertical (big difference in price usually) and if it's "worth it", go for it.

-Ron

That's kinda the dividend(s) I was alluding to Ron. I do a lot of broken lip repair on LH cases. The one that receives th 0-ring between the motor and inner primary. I've always had to have Tom do them at his shop because my lathe won't swing the case. I can now do these on the spot "in house". No waiting and at the same time not feeling like I'm a burden on a good friend who's working 50-65 hours a week already.

As the Valleyboy said: get it with a tailstock so you can mount the RT vertically on the table. You will then have the capability to make gears and splines.

I'm not sure exactly what style/type this particular RT is. It's pictured mounted on the mill in the other thread if anyone can tell by looking at it.
 
Ah,yes. Gears. I had forgotten about gears. I don't understand this,but click on the blue line of info for a different view. These are those pesky tapered gears.

IMG_0064.JPG IMG_0065.JPG
 
Back
Top