Group Project: Dividing Head - The Build

I am not entirely sure how people are approaching their parts but my plan is this: Instead of making one part per day, I plan to do one operation per day on all 7 parts. Since a lot of time is in the setup I feel this would be more efficient for my parts. I suppose this would entirely depend on the part in question and the complexity of the tool setup.

Robert
 
I have been so busy working on my garage i have been sidetracked :oops2: Tonight i may forgo the painting and maybe start a part or 2. I dont want to keep holding everyone up more due to my garage project
 
I think we all expect this to be a long project and we should not rush it. We did not create any kind of timeline when we started this. Can we agree to have the first parts ready to ship by July 15? That's about 3 weeks away. I realize there are still some small parts not spoken for.
Robert
 
I dont think we were setting up to ship out one part each for checking. Last i knew we were just making them all and going to assemble. But either way one of each part of my will prob not be ready by then bc i am in the middle of doing my garage to get the mill and lathe going. I cant do some stuff without the mill also due to not having a drill press and i did say that earlier.
 
Brento said:
I dont think we were setting up to ship out one part each for checking. Last i knew we were just making them all and going to assemble. But either way one of each part of my will prob not be ready by then bc i am in the middle of doing my garage to get the mill and lathe going. I cant do some stuff without the mill also due to not having a drill press and i did say that earlier.
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I think the overall project will go faster if you get set-up right first, and I still think I'm going to be the long pole.

My issue is just turning a huge amount of "not dividing head" into chips.* My technique and setup has been slowly improving, but even still I'm just now finishing up the bottom of the third Main Base. I did get the material rough cut for the Trunnion Crank, but it is going to have to sit and wait for its turn on the mill.

I've spent a lot of time in reseting and rearranging to get the entire part within the range of movement of my mill, and then getting it rigid enough to hit the numbers. Nothing is more frustrating than getting set-up, wonder why the cut isn't progressing or is crooked, and then realizing that the part is moving in the vice.

Which is how I broke my Chinesium vice last week. I kept cranking down trying to stop the piece from walking all over the place. Fortunately, I got two new ones in Saturday morning. . . a 6" precision vice, and a 4" screwless. Turns out that a 6" vice looks silly sitting on a RF-30 clone, taking up nearly the entire table, but the rigidity is awesome. Combined with the almost silent 3Hp DC motor, the cuts I did yesterday not only came out straight, but the cutting wouldn't have woken a sleeping baby. No vibration or chatter to speak of.

The bucket that I'm keeping scraps and chips in probably weighs 30lbs at this point.

*A famous sculptor (Michael Angelo?) was asked how he did it. His response was he starts with a image, and cuts away what doesn't belong.
 
Brento said:
What 6" did you get i am still looking for a 4"
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One of the chinesium Kurt knock-offs from eBay.

www.ebay.com

VEVOR 6" Lock Precision Vise W/ Lock Vice Milling Drilling Machine Clamp Vice | eBay

Suitable for milling, drilling machine, and precision parts finishing. Our clamping vise has a powerful clamping force and can fix workpieces very securely. This enables the stationary and stability of workpieces, so they won’t move even slightly if much force has been applied by the fitter.
www.ebay.com
 
Shotgun said:
One of the chinesium Kurt knock-offs from eBay.

www.ebay.com

VEVOR 6" Lock Precision Vise W/ Lock Vice Milling Drilling Machine Clamp Vice | eBay

Suitable for milling, drilling machine, and precision parts finishing. Our clamping vise has a powerful clamping force and can fix workpieces very securely. This enables the stationary and stability of workpieces, so they won’t move even slightly if much force has been applied by the fitter.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
I'd be careful with one of those. I picked up the 4" one for a shaper-vise a while back and thought it was generally pretty garbage. I suspect that if I spent some time with the surface grinder (which I did, though I was trying to 'thin' it out as well) I could get the bed acceptable, but it is likely going to take a while with a die grinder and time on the mill to get it pulling 'down' well enough.

@Brento: IMO, anything other than the ~$400 models (Orange, Glacern, Kurt) or a 4" screwless-vise are pretty terrible and are likely going to require a bunch of work to make usable.
 
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