guidance on relining a 22 LR rifle

I've done many with a piloted drill, you don't even need a lathe to do it. One of the tricks I've learned is to stop the drill about .030" from the muzzle. This leaves the crown intact, so after the epoxy cures you can cut a bevel crown to blend with the liner and it looks like an original crown.(the liner is not visible)
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I've never used loctite, only epoxy. You need to make sure the liner is loose enough in the bore that it will rotate just by turning with your fingers.
I always plug the muzzle end of the liner with a bullet so epoxy doesn't get in. Fill the barrel with epoxy and let the excess run out, and coat the liner.
Hold the barrel vertical in a vise and start the liner in with a slight twisting motion, going slow enough to relieve trapped air and push out the excess epoxy. The important part is to make sure there are no voids in the epoxy and it covers 100%.
thanks for the advise . The problem with using the piloted bit is the cost. What I have seen of them, they are not cheep, and I would most likely only use it once. Since I have the lathe, and the long standard bit, if it work I would rather go that route .
 
Lighting off 15-20,000 PSI inches from your face is not the place to "use a #11 drill bit". Sure it could work, but the crackshot action isn't particularly good at containing gasses from burst cases when everything is right. Like I said it is a couple inches from your face.

A friend bought the drill bit, barrel liner and acra-glas from Brownell's. He drilled it with a hand held 1/2" drill then had the neighborhood gunsmith run a chamber reamer into it. Then he fitted the extractor to it at home.
 
Yep,, it looks like its going to be too costly , between purchasing the liner, and bit, then renting or buying a chamber reamer thanks for all the replies and Happy Holidays to All
 
You will need a reamer of some sort. You have to have a transition from the end of the chamber into the rifling. You could rent a rimfire reamer pretty inexpensively. As for the piloted drill it shouldn't be that difficult to grind one If you want to pursue the project and the only hangup is the piloted drill I am willing to help you out there. Honestly the only reason I would reline is to retain the original look and factory lettering. If thats not a concern look at green mountain barrels 45- 50 bucks for an unturned blank. It would make a nice project to fit the barrel and IME they shoot extremely well.
 
You will need a reamer of some sort. You have to have a transition from the end of the chamber into the rifling. You could rent a rimfire reamer pretty inexpensively. As for the piloted drill it shouldn't be that difficult to grind one If you want to pursue the project and the only hangup is the piloted drill I am willing to help you out there. Honestly the only reason I would reline is to retain the original look and factory lettering. If thats not a concern look at green mountain barrels 45- 50 bucks for an unturned blank. It would make a nice project to fit the barrel and IME they shoot extremely well.
Thanks for the reply . I went to Green Mountain Barrel website . The cheapest 22 LR round barrel blank is listed at almost 100 bucks . I can get a liner here for less than 30 . The drill nit is not the big issue , its the reamer. that is adding a minimum of another 75 bucks to the pot . right now I will seek out a few local gunsmiths that might ream the chamber for me at a reasonable price. if I can get that set up and not have to sink the money on the reamer that I would only use once then I would pursue that option. If not the Crackshot will sit in the corner for a few more years. Thanks again
 
Thanks for the reply . I went to Green Mountain Barrel website . The cheapest 22 LR round barrel blank is listed at almost 100 bucks . I can get a liner here for less than 30 . The drill nit is not the big issue , its the reamer. that is adding a minimum of another 75 bucks to the pot . right now I will seek out a few local gunsmiths that might ream the chamber for me at a reasonable price. if I can get that set up and not have to sink the money on the reamer that I would only use once then I would pursue that option. If not the Crackshot will sit in the corner for a few more years. Thanks again
Here are the examples I posted above The GM website isnt the most user freindly
http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/22-blank-22lr-21-x-1-gunsmith-edition-raw-barrel-blank/
http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/22s-bl...ition-raw-rifle-barrel-blank-stainless-steel/
 
Hmmm ,, I would still have to get it chambered but in the long run this might be the vest bang for the buck [pun not intended] I will have to mull this over a few times and check on the chambering options. I did save that web address for future use thanks once again
 
In fact there is a powerful centreing force making a conventional twist drill follow an existing hole,to the extent it is near impossible to deviate unless you use an end cutting tool rigidly held........the V shape of any drill centres it......If the 22 bore is straight ,the larger bore will also be straight...if you check out Howes Modern Gunsmithing,he uses a cutter very like a multi flute 90deg countersink........you should flush the chips from the hole opposite the drill travel..The likely cause of jamming or twisting the bit will be chip packing. ..I think Brownells 22 liners are already chambered,I know the larger 32 and 44 ones are.
 
How badly is the barrel rusted? It may shoot fine after a good cleaning.
 
How badly is the barrel rusted? It may shoot fine after a good cleaning.
The exterior looks fine just surface rust the bore however is pitted bad. I ran some nitro solvent through it, and put a wire cleaning jag on a drill motor but its still not usable.
 
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