Hello All My First Post And New Machine

Laytonnz,

My go to list for stuck things:

-get a wire brush wheel on it to remove as much rust, paint and other debris as possible from any joint lines

-penetrating oil made of 1/2 Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and 1/2 acetone. The acetone thins it so it wicks in any opening and then evaporates quickly, leaving the ATF oil behind.

-a thousand small whacks are better than a few big whacks. I cut off some chisels from my air powered chisel hammer and use those for things like stuck brake drums, etc. You can spend some time hammering gently without breaking a sweat and things often pop apart without broken metal or black thumbs.

-more inspection and thinking....does it really come apart the way I think it should? Did a former owner weld it?

-add heat. Sometime tricky if low-temp alloys or near bearings, seals, etc. It is best if you can expand the "outer" thing and create more play between them, but I have also had to heat the "inner" thing; it can at least crack the old rust and get things separated. Be careful of any penetrating oils used earlier!

-a successively larger selection of hammers......

-can I break or cut-off one piece and save the other? Which part is sacrificial?, does it require an angle grinder, a hammer and chisel or cutting torch?

I am sure there's more.
-brino
 
I shall try that list tonight and see how i go i like the atf acetone idea, i will win one way or another even if i wait and machine it off!
 
Just thought of something......if the spindle has an internal morse-taper, you could use that to hold the spindle while you try to turn the faceplate. Maybe even use on old drill bit held in a vice, or a spare morse-to-jacob taper stub arbour, or a MT3-to_MT2 adapter, etc.

one more idea, use two approaches in parallel: give it the vibration/small whacks of the air hammer while it is under tension from a wrench

-brino
 
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