Help making this part on a lathe only.

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FTlatheworks

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I have a brass machine rod end. It’s called a connecting bearing. I believe I could bore and thread a piece of 1 1/4 inch brass stock and taper it so it has a .577 radius. I would then have to flip it and face it flat on both sides of the brass stock in a 4 jaw, but idk If that’s possible. The stock would then need to be bored on the side with the radius. I don’t know how to draft, or properly draw machinist drawing, but here’s what I have so far. I will also attach a picture of the part underneath.

Please let me know if this doesn’t make sense. I’m sure y’all will understand where I’m going and be able to say whether it’s possible on the lathe. It doesn’t need to be identical to this just clear everything and function.
 

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Is there a bearing inside ? Just wondering because you can purchase these .
 
mmcmdl said:
Is there a bearing inside ? Just wondering because you can purchase these .
Click to expand...
No, no bearing inside. It’s just a brass rod end made custom for a machine, so that you have to make/buy them. Yes I could buy one from the machine manufacturer.

It can’t swivel. It’s for linear motion, unlike a heim joint.
 
If I were making this entirely on the lathe, I would drill and tap the end hole as you suggest. Then I would turn a ball on the end of the part. Next I would turn the near end of the part to the required diameter . Follow this with the four jaw. Center the ball and face one side to .450" from the center of the ball and drill the pivot hole. Flip and face the other side. to .900 thickness.
Tie Rod End.JPG
 
RJSakowski said:
The .440" - 18 tpi is a special thread (7/16" - 18 tpi).
Click to expand...
I replaced all the rod ends and steering linkages on all IH and Cub tractors over the years as an upgrade . The original Heim joints sucked and broke regularly .
 
The part could be saw cut from a hunk of brass then smoothed with a file. Drill and tap
 
RJSakowski said:
If I were making this entirely on the lathe, I would drill and tap the end hole as you suggest. Then I would turn a ball on the end of the part. Next I would turn the near end of the part to the required diameter . Follow this with the four jaw. Center the ball and face one side to .450" from the center of the ball and drill the pivot hole. Flip and face the other side. to .900 thickness.
View attachment 462359
Click to expand...
Can I turn a taper the same angle and radius of the ball? Then just face that down? So I don’t have to buy a ball turning tool? Then maybe shape the end if need be with a grinder?
 

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RJSakowski said:
The .440" - 18 tpi is a special thread (7/16" - 18 tpi).
Click to expand...
Also, I measured a half inch and counted the threads and multiplied by 2, but it’s on the machine. I’m 100 percent that’s the thread per inch. I need to get better standard thread gauge tools.
 
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