Help making this part on a lathe only.

FTlatheworks said:
Can I turn a taper the same angle and radius of the ball? Then just face that down? So I don’t have to buy a ball turning tool? Then maybe shape the end if need be with a grinder?
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@RJSakowski nailed it. I recently made this part for a knurler. Yes you could turn a taper and grind your shape in but concentricity would be a challenge. If making out of brass you could spin it in the lathe and shape it with a file. It would take awhile but could get you in the wheelhouse on dimensions
 
Depending on the application, it may not be necessary to used a sintered bronze (e.g. Oilite) bushing. If the motion is push/pull, there should be very little wear due to friction. Many small engine designs use steel wrist pins with the aluminum piston being the bearing surface.

OTOH, if it is rotary motion like for the main bearing on a connecting rod, that could be a different matter.
 
Eyerelief said:
@RJSakowski nailed it. I recently made this part for a knurler. Yes you could turn a taper and grind your shape in but concentricity would be a challenge. If making out of brass you could spin it in the lathe and shape it with a file. It would take awhile but could get you in the wheelhouse on dimensions
Click to expand...
I don’t think the shape really matters, just the female threads and the bore remaining concentric, right?
 
RJSakowski said:
Depending on the application, it may not be necessary to used a sintered bronze (e.g. Oilite) bushing. If the motion is push/pull, there should be very little wear due to friction. Many small engine designs use steel wrist pins with the aluminum piston being the bearing surface.

OTOH, if it is rotary motion like for the main bearing on a connecting rod, that could be a different matter.
Click to expand...
Yes,like Babbitt rods? Either way I could go with steel if need be, or I can use a ball bearing, or any kind of sleeve bearing.

Here is the motion video below.
 

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FTlatheworks said:
I don’t think the shape really matters, just the female threads and the bore remaining concentric, right?
Click to expand...
I was going to point this out. The bore needs to be perp to the threads, all else "fits air".
 
MrWhoopee said:
I was going to point this out. The bore needs to be perp to the threads, all else "fits air".
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I guess it does need to be perpendicular, but the two bores midpoints don’t have to be perfectly linear?

Thats the point of the .625 bore, so the rod can push the bar back and forth while moving and allow the stud that’s in the bore to travel on a curve while still attached to the rod, correct?

So I need to make sure I face the first side perfectly flat before I flip it. How would I measure that? Just like measuring runout?
 
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