I can order the actual part from machine manufacturer easily. I want to make the part myself.McMaster sells rod ends and rod end blanks. They have some with bearings, some with plain ends, and even some with vibration dampening cushions.
I forgot bronze and brass differences. You’re right about that.Sleeve bearings are bronze, not brass. This part is also likely bronze.
If it were me, I would bore out the existing part and insert an OTS bronze bearing.
Far be it from me to discourage you, I do it often enough. I was just looking at it as the shortest way to get to the destination. If making a whole new piece, I would make it from steel with a bronze bushing, more easily repaired the next time. Besides, bronze stock is expensive.It was just the fact that making a unique part on my lathe for my work sounded fun.
I just looked at it and the a 6 inch piece of 1.25 is like 90 bucks. Idk why I couldn’t even use aluminum and a bronze sleeve, but idk if bronze is harder than aluminum.Far be it from me to discourage you, I do it often enough. I was just looking at it as the shortest way to get to the destination. If making a whole new piece, I would make it from steel with a bronze bushing, more easily repaired the next time. Besides, bronze stock is expensive.
Did you see me ask about turning a taper, then facing the stock after flipping it laterally? (idk if there is a better way to describe flipping the stock?)Aluminum with a bronze bushing should work just fine. Boring the press fit for the bushing should be no problem, good practice. If you miss there's always loctite.
Thats what I was thinking. I have the aluminum to do that. I just need to get the bronze sleeve bearing. I’m going for it. Thanks for the help!Hold the part with the 1 1/4 rod parallel to the chuck face in 4-jaw. Rough drill, & rough face the 5/8 diameter hole. Bore the .625 diameter to size. Finish face perpendicular to the .625 diameter bore. If you have a boring bar that has an extendable tool bit, you could face the back side, providing you leave enough clearance between the work and the chuck. Other than that you could flip the part and use a 5/8 pin in the bore to locate the backside true and then face it. I would then tap the 7/16 BSF thread? and turn the taper and round last. My .02