Help Me Get Shapering!

It’s best to really tighten that feed t nut as tight as possible. I’m not sure but I think that’s one of the leading causes of ratchet box crashes. And believe me you DON’T want that to happen.

For me the cutter head it too high. I shoot for the dovetails being fully engaged and work down from there. I also put a couple of quick lock handles on the head to lock and unlock the head gibs. This vastly improved my accuracy as it will want to pull the head down or push it up if you have any lash in the feed screw like I do. It’s on the list to be replaced along with the table feed.
 
Thanks for the advice!

The trouble I was having with the cutter head is that I can't get the table to go any lower. How can I reconcile this issue?
 
Two things, do you have the pivot under the stock vise? I took mine out. Is your foot under the table up as high as it can go?
 
Your cutter is too long IMHO. Especially on the backside making your holder stick down to far. I have mine as close as possible.

Also shaper cutters are not ground like lathe cutters. I was lucky mine came with one already ground. It’s basically round, not pointy.
 
I do still have the swivel base on there.

The table foot is all the way up.

Point taken on the cutter. I got with this machine a small can of hss cutters. Some were cut down to about 1” long and I guess that’s why.

Point also taken on the tool grind. I randomly picked one from the can that looked like a lathe cutter. But after looking at the shaper manual there is definitely a unique grind for shaping.

So how is your vise bolted to the table? Just using the two bolts that secure it to the swivel base?
 
Things must be tightened enough so they do not move, and the down feed slide is ideally fully engaged, but not a biggie if it is not, gibs should be tight enough so that the slide does not feed down during the cut.
 
You may find that the way your tool holder is installed will tend to cause chatter, you can turn it around so the tool is behind the shank rather than in front, they were designed to work either way.
 
benmychree said:
You may find that the way your tool holder is installed will tend to cause chatter, you can turn it around so the tool is behind the shank rather than in front, they were designed to work either way.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I do seem to remember seeing/reading about that somewhere in the past.

As far as cutters go, I think I'm on a better track here.

The manual says this tool shape is "narrow roughing". I chose it because it looked the simplest for my first attempt at grinding a shaper tool. The top rake is zero.

EM521037.JPG


EM521038.JPG



With the tool nearly touching I'm almost all the way in the dovetail. Also notice the tool post washer in the pic below. Shouldn't there be a rocker? Otherwise there's no need for a concavity, right?

EM521039.JPG



I like the idea of slide locks too. @frugalguido suggested the same thing on my rebuild thread. What kind of screws are you guys using for slide locks? Thumb screws? Should there be one or two?

Thanks for the help so far!
 
The tool that you show would be appropriate for brass, for ferrous metals, it should have both side and back rake. Shaper tools need little clearance on the front or side, but need rake on top to cut freely.
 
One binder on the top slide is enough, I favor a lever so it can be easily set up or released.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top