Help Me Get Shapering!

No problem on questions. A couple of things, After you get the plate off of the yoke and get the sliding block out of the way, BE SURE and check the pivot pin is still attached firmly to the adjusting plate. This thing is a real ****ty design, the pivot is pressed into the adjusting plate and welded, not enough area that contacts the pivot and the adjusting plate and it brakes loose. This is what takes that all the force of moving the ram back and forth. Mine was fixed before and it broke again. I remade all of this, it's a big job.
Second, The block has to have very little clearance if you can properly lube it. It's a high wear item though, I set mine up pretty tight and it's starting to loose up a little, but way better than the factory loose setup. Next item is the yoke itself, as mentioned before it was worn more in the center of the stroke more than at the ends, I had to scrape the yoke to make up for wear.
To summarize, check the pivot first before worrying about the sliding block clearance, if the pivot ok, then its up to you if you can live with the clank of a loose fitting block. If it has pivot problems then you have to fix the pivot for sure, because it will cause even more wear on the block and the yoke.
 
Weldo said:
Hmm. You think I could just grind some top rake on the tool I have?

Got any pictures of the tool you described?
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Somewhat like the tool you are using, but with a smaller radius at the nose and more side rake.
 
I didn’t read all the responses so someone may have already said this.... I’d use brake cleaner, mineral spirits or other such solvents to clean out the grease. Then,,,, generously oil the machine, using pressure from a pump up sprayer if necessary, until all is oiled up. I’ve used this technique to get grease zeros freed up when they were full of dirt and /or dried up grease.
 
Thanks @frugalguido

My pin was broken as well. I grooved it out heavily and welded it with Hastelloy-W. Supposedly this is a great rod for tough applications like tool steels and applications that necessitate high strength. I doubt it has broken again after just a few minutes of shaping but I'll check it out and keep and eye on it.

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Did you remake your plate/pin in one piece? I think you shared that on my rebuild thread but I can't remember.


Based on my clearance findings and your information that it should be a close fit, I'm guessing that my block is woefully undersized. Like I quoted, I found about 0.011" of clearance in the center of the yoke/block fit and about 0.006-0.007" at either end.

If I remade my block about 0.005" bigger than it is, I would have about 0.001-0.002" on the ends and about 0.006" in the center of the yoke. In your opinion is that still more clearance than I want? Otherwise I have to do major disassembly to open up the yoke somehow.
 
No, two piece. I finally realized that we talked about this before in the other thread, Sorry for rehashing this again here.

I guess it depends on what you are wanting out of the shaper? Noise ok? plan on using a lot? If you are, then noise is going to get worse. I tend to be anal about this sort of thing, To make a new block properly is not a small job and you are still not totally fixing the problem, the yoke is still bigger in the center and no matter what how small the stroke length is set for it's still using the center of the yoke all the time where the wear is, which wears it even more. IMHO, I think you have to fix the wear in the yoke, then make new block to fit the yoke if you want to make it right.
 
I agree with you.

Well my original goal was to make chips before the end of the year and I accomplished that much. Now I don't feel as bad about doing another tear down. At least this time I can leave most of the gears and bearings in place.

The trouble is that I need the shaper to make the block but I can't get a good number without tearing it apart...

So I'd have to tear it down, measure the yoke and get a good number, then reassemble it with the old worn parts, cut the block, then disassemble everything again to fix the wear in the yoke. Then I can finally reassemble the yoke with the new block.

Sound about right?

Do you think I could fix 0.005" or so of wear on the yoke with just hand files? You mentioned that you scraped yours into straightness, but I've never scraped before and have no knowledge of it or tools for it.
 
Oh, and what clearance between the yoke and block did you shoot for when you did this?
 
Weldo said:
Oh, and what clearance between the yoke and block did you shoot for when you did this?
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I can't remember off the top of my head, but I want to say .001-.002 clearance. I think that I have spare yoke that I would let you borrow to use while you fix yours, not sure of its condition though. I'll have to see if I can find it, its been awhile.
 
I appreciate the offer, but I’ll try to do it without troubling you. I think I can do the process outlined above, it’s just a little more work.

If my observations were accurate during my rebuild, the difference between the worn center of the yoke and the not-as-worn ends is only about 0.004-0.006”. That means I’d only have to remove about 0.003” per side wall of the yoke, removing material equally on each side wall. Such a small amount could probably be done with files, stones or sanding blocks.

I’ll start digging into this soon.
 
Depending on the equipment available, I would make up a dummy block to the biggest dimension and use it as a gage or use inside mics, you just have to be sure to keep the alignments right. I scraped mine, which as a side benefit added some areas to let the lube hang.
 
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