Help With Lining Up A Lathe Tail Stock

[Mac1]

The easiest way to make a test bar to align centers is to use a 12 inch piece of 1/2 x 13 threaded rod. centerdrill each end. At each end screw on a nut , a large washer and another nut to lock the washer. Place between centers, take a light cut on each washer(don't change depth of cut). If the diameters of the washers are equal, the centers are aligned.

 

[John Hasler]

Hum if lathe is out of level how will you align tailstock?

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I use two dead centers and a steel rule. Put a center in the headstock, another in the tailstock, and clamp the rule between them. When the plane of the rule is perpendicular to the center line the tailstock is aligned.

 

[ebgb68]

I have today off so I'm going to try some of your suggestions.
I don't have a machine level or the extra cash to invest in one right now.
This is the contraption I copied and it seems to be rigid enough but would be better with an indicator that's not offset.


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[ebgb68]

I use two dead centers and a steel rule. Put a center in the headstock, another in the tailstock, and clamp the rule between them. When the plane of the rule is perpendicular to the center line the tailstock is aligned.

Something like this ? The sheet metal doesn't deflect left or right but tilts toward the head stock showing the same high tail stock measurement .

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[rlgustin]

How about a dial indicator mounted to spindle.

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[ebgb68]

If the tail stock side of my test bar is smaller than the headstock side then the tail stock should be adjusted away from me right ?

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[ebgb68]

How about a dial indicator mounted to spindle.

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With what I have on hand it wouldn't swing right for me.

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[John Hasler]

Something like this ? The sheet metal doesn't deflect left or right but tilts toward the head stock showing the same high tail stock measurement .

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That tiny a vertical offset doesn't matter.

 

[JR49]

ebgb68, your pic looks to me that you only turned the two ends of the bar. If this is correct, then you would have had to move the tool out to get two the other end, then move it back in to turn that end. This could be introducing an in-accurate reading if your cross slide dial doesn't return exactly to the same cutting depth. The center part of your bar should first be turned smaller than the two ends, then after taking a cut at one end you move the carriage to the other end WITHOUT moving the cross slide. I even lock the cross slide gibs after setting the tool for a .002-.003" cut, that way I'm sure nothing moves from one end cut to the other. Hope this helps, JR49

 

[ebgb68]

ebgb68, your pic looks to me that you only turned the two ends of the bar. If this is correct, then you would have had to move the tool out to get two the other end, then move it back in to turn that end. This could be introducing an in-accurate reading if your cross slide dial doesn't return exactly to the same cutting depth. The center part of your bar should first be turned smaller than the two ends, then after taking a cut at one end you move the carriage to the other end WITHOUT moving the cross slide. I even lock the cross slide gibs after setting the tool for a .002-.003" cut, that way I'm sure nothing moves from one end cut to the other. Hope this helps, JR49

Thank you for the suggestion your right the dials have some error to them .
Taking you suggestion I used the center portion to make adjustments while working further from the chuck . It's getting closer just a little more to go.
I asume until I get the ways leveled I can do this process to get the tail stock on center at the distance I want to work ?

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